finally found the air assist pump in the garage, so i can finally get that hooked up & test stuff (already know i need to re-align the mirrors).
The Laser Cutter Thread
- Thread starter Jehos
- Start date
It's actually hard to know where to post this, because it's a 3D printed part and a laser cut part lol.
I'm trying designs to extend the stock of a foam dart blaster to be more comfortable, it's flat and hard and not great on your shoulder. 3D printing extends and creates a more comfortable curve, and the laser is cutting and etching the foam to fit perfect and be a little stylish.
Still working out prototypes. I think the foam concept works, so I'll post here and maybe put the next version with a hopefully more refined 3D printed design in our printer thread, just to spread the love to both techs.
(This is an XYL Unicorn btw for anyone curious)
I'm trying designs to extend the stock of a foam dart blaster to be more comfortable, it's flat and hard and not great on your shoulder. 3D printing extends and creates a more comfortable curve, and the laser is cutting and etching the foam to fit perfect and be a little stylish.
Still working out prototypes. I think the foam concept works, so I'll post here and maybe put the next version with a hopefully more refined 3D printed design in our printer thread, just to spread the love to both techs.
(This is an XYL Unicorn btw for anyone curious)
That’s a very sensible consideration. These guys were cutting acrylic with but I believe it was blackened for absorption.
Diodes can handle dark acrylic as I understand it, they won't cut clear. The wavelength just isn't right.
I have no experience using them however.
I'm interested in how you managed to dial in your CO2 laser for foam etching. This must take very careful power settings. Did you find that a lot of experimentation was needed to get that plunge depth correct for your texturing and embossing? It's looking factory made--very high quality I mean. Or am I seeing a printed backplate over the buttplate foam? Either way, the results look really good.It's actually hard to know where to post this, because it's a 3D printed part and a laser cut part lol.
I'm trying designs to extend the stock of a foam dart blaster to be more comfortable, it's flat and hard and not great on your shoulder. 3D printing extends and creates a more comfortable curve, and the laser is cutting and etching the foam to fit perfect and be a little stylish.
Still working out prototypes. I think the foam concept works, so I'll post here and maybe put the next version with a hopefully more refined 3D printed design in our printer thread, just to spread the love to both techs.
View attachment 64812
(This is an XYL Unicorn btw for anyone curious)
I'm wondering if for this project that it may be time to walk away from your current tools and tinker with silicone molding for a really nice and absorbent stock cheek/butt stock assembly? Perhaps a harder polymer but still squishy, but some fun carving or 3D printing your molds and casting a part will yield a more satisfactory recoil nullification as well as look really good, plus bonus points for using novel techniques in combining your toolset. Looks like a fun project.
This is on my bucket list of fabrication techniques to learn. Thanks.
The thing about lasers is everyone has a different setup. So it's hard to pass along settings.
But for foam generally speaking if you're trying to engrave the surface, and not cut it, you kind of can't go too light. Lowest power, reasonably fast speed is the starting point.
My first was an Xtool D1 10w diode laser. I thought it was great until I got an Xtool P2 CO2 laser (55w). I've had zero problems with my P2 apart from the anemic built-in exhaust fan (upgraded to a 4" inline fan/duct to the outside combo). The speed difference is incredible.
I got a Darkly Labs Emblaser Core on a bit of a whim (I was looking at Cricut-style machines and started seeing ads for it and thought 'well, why not?') and it quickly became one of my most-used tools. Would absolutely recommend it to anyone who wants to try laser cutting out at a lower price point. Especially great is that it includes a LightBurn license that will let you get familiar with standard software and will be useful if you do upgrade later on (unless you get a Glowforge, unfortunately).
I really want to upgrade to a Omtech Polar but I'm not quite sure I can get one into my apartment. A lot of couriers refuse to delivery heavy items beyond the ground floor, and I think the polar in its shipping crate might be too heavy for me to shift upstairs on my own!
I really want to upgrade to a Omtech Polar but I'm not quite sure I can get one into my apartment. A lot of couriers refuse to delivery heavy items beyond the ground floor, and I think the polar in its shipping crate might be too heavy for me to shift upstairs on my own!
Is anyone here willing to do some custom laser work? Or recommend a shop willing to do customized work from my vector files?
I used to have access to a Trotec Speedy 400 at work, but not any longer. Unfortunately, I've got a few unfinished projects I'd like to continue with.
I'm also stuck with 9 sheets of genuine Trotec Laser-thins self adhesive brushed aluminum-to-black. If someone could cut a couple sheets of it for me, I'd give them the rest as payment.
I used to have access to a Trotec Speedy 400 at work, but not any longer. Unfortunately, I've got a few unfinished projects I'd like to continue with.
I'm also stuck with 9 sheets of genuine Trotec Laser-thins self adhesive brushed aluminum-to-black. If someone could cut a couple sheets of it for me, I'd give them the rest as payment.
I don't have bandwidth to take on stuff, but I have used:
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If you have vector files you can send over, I can see if my brother is willing to put together a quote. He primarily stocks acrylic and baltic birch, but has a lower wattage than that Trotec Speedy 400.