Farm, Garden, Ranch and Homestead : Makers au Naturel

Carhole

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We think about rebuilding our coop every now and then. It takes a really robust coop to keep birds safe from mongoose here, so it gets to be very frustrating if you even try to raise hens in a slightly less-than watertight area. They simply get murdered to pieces. And our coop is biodegraded to the point that I’d like to tear the structure down and then build a fresh outbuilding in its place. Maybe downsize it to a smaller, raised coop attached to the shed side of a roof pitch, well elevated with screen bottoms for poop collecting and then do an electrified, mobile paddock to let them range. We have quite a lot of bugs in the soil out here so it is easy to raise chickens without feed if you can keep them safe from predation. Anyhow, it’s a lot of work that we have decided to shy away from for now despite really missing our own fresh eggs that we knew were naturally raised. Maybe four birds next time. I don’t think that a whole flock will be in the cards for us again at anytime soon.
I think there is a reasonable enough chance whatever my next house is, I might only be owning for 2-3 years.
Ugh, sorry for the tough times. Sounds extremely difficult. I do hope that you are able to get into a good headspace to keep your gardening enjoyment tailored for the reasons listed. Maybe you can do a really low effort container garden during the transitional period before you spring into thinking about bigger places (if ever appropriate) and take the rewards of hobby farming forward in a different yet rewarding manner. It certainly seems like an important aspect to latch onto for your own intentions. Raising food is its own reward, and geeking out on botany is of course highly recommended for mental stimulation and zen. You’ll figure out what works. Good luck.

Re: coldframes, these are most certainly worth having in temperate growing areas. I used to live on a 70acre parcel up in Connecticut and about twenty of those were groomed, mostly pasture, but I farmed corn a few times and had a large fenced in garden (54’x54’) dedicated to half nightshades and half all remaining mixed veggies that we could get going in CT. The cold frame was essential to getting harvestable foods by June, and this involved starting tomatoes, peppers, and some other slower plants in a south-facing window during the month of February, then beginning very early hardening off within the cold frame. I’d made mine from four actually glazed sunroom windows 5’x4’ ea so the cold frame was quite large due to those windows. Lovely antiques that had no business being turned on their sides but at about 35° angle for the southern edge that could be lifted and propped up on hot days, a couple of hundred starter pots could live underneath it.
 

azazel1024

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13,901
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We think about rebuilding our coop every now and then. It takes a really robust coop to keep birds safe from mongoose here, so it gets to be very frustrating if you even try to raise hens in a slightly less-than watertight area. They simply get murdered to pieces. And our coop is biodegraded to the point that I’d like to tear the structure down and then build a fresh outbuilding in its place. Maybe downsize it to a smaller, raised coop attached to the shed side of a roof pitch, well elevated with screen bottoms for poop collecting and then do an electrified, mobile paddock to let them range. We have quite a lot of bugs in the soil out here so it is easy to raise chickens without feed if you can keep them safe from predation. Anyhow, it’s a lot of work that we have decided to shy away from for now despite really missing our own fresh eggs that we knew were naturally raised. Maybe four birds next time. I don’t think that a whole flock will be in the cards for us again at anytime soon.

Ugh, sorry for the tough times. Sounds extremely difficult. I do hope that you are able to get into a good headspace to keep your gardening enjoyment tailored for the reasons listed. Maybe you can do a really low effort container garden during the transitional period before you spring into thinking about bigger places (if ever appropriate) and take the rewards of hobby farming forward in a different yet rewarding manner. It certainly seems like an important aspect to latch onto for your own intentions. Raising food is its own reward, and geeking out on botany is of course highly recommended for mental stimulation and zen. You’ll figure out what works. Good luck.

Re: coldframes, these are most certainly worth having in temperate growing areas. I used to live on a 70acre parcel up in Connecticut and about twenty of those were groomed, mostly pasture, but I farmed corn a few times and had a large fenced in garden (54’x54’) dedicated to half nightshades and half all remaining mixed veggies that we could get going in CT. The cold frame was essential to getting harvestable foods by June, and this involved starting tomatoes, peppers, and some other slower plants in a south-facing window during the month of February, then beginning very early hardening off within the cold frame. I’d made mine from four actually glazed sunroom windows 5’x4’ ea so the cold frame was quite large due to those windows. Lovely antiques that had no business being turned on their sides but at about 35° angle for the southern edge that could be lifted and propped up on hot days, a couple of hundred starter pots could live underneath it.
Thanks. Here it is hawks, racoons, and foxes. We lost a bunch to racoons. When we moved, we moved the coop and my wife built a couple of large attached runs, but didn't reinforce them well. Because I was busy and she wasn't willing to wait a day or two to build them.

So we lost one bird to a coon. Trapped it and killed it (the coon). Fixed the run. Then 2 months later, apparently several racoons got in and killed 7 of the 12 birds we had (1 rooster who did nothing). Fixed that problem, trapped and killed a coon. My game camera later showed there had been SIX adult racoons that had gotten in and killed the 7 chickens.

No losses since then, other than culling some roosters we got with new hens, as well as one hen who was egg bound, likely from damage she suffered in the racoon attack. I nursed that bird back to health for a month (removed most of the skin from one breast and broke a wing). About 4 months after she was back to mostly full health, she was dead. Necropsy showed she was egg bound. Probably had just started laying after the trauma and she hadn't healed right.

Other was one of old age (6 years old) last week.
 

Tom the Melaniephile

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View attachment 62459
heh, I know the feeling.
Omelettes for dinner! Bread pudding! Quiche! Deviled eggs!

That said, eggs will last for months in my fridge without issue (okay, a bit of water loss, but NBD)

The unprecedented hot and dry summer we are still having in Austin is really discouraging for me. Summer crop of blackberries on the primocanes was mostly a bust (flowers, but mostly the fruit didn't set properly or was partly dried up), I just let the animals have the few figs we had, got a couple of apples, chayote vines died despite supplemental watering, a bunch of the native dewberries died back to the ground (minimal supplemental watering) - even the herbs are struggling.

About the only things which did well this year are the native wildflowers, especially Bluebonnets, Texas Coneflower, Ruellia Simplex and sunflowers (the native ones with hundreds of flower heads). Ruellia nudiflora did okay. Maypop/passionflower did really well into July and supported a lot of butterflies, especially the gulf fritillary. I even found a (dried out) fruit in August.

The sunflowers support an awful lot of birds, especially goldfinch and doves which we enjoy watching. Whenever I go out in the yard, I seem to startle a flock of 8-12 doves...
 

walnut close

Wise, Aged Ars Veteran
199
The unprecedented hot and dry summer we are still having in Austin is really discouraging for me. Summer crop of blackberries on the primocanes was mostly a bust (flowers, but mostly the fruit didn't set properly or was partly dried up), I just let the animals have the few figs we had, got a couple of apples, chayote vines died despite supplemental watering, a bunch of the native dewberries died back to the ground (minimal supplemental watering) - even the herbs are struggling.
If you grow your own food, drought can be deeply discouraging. We have had the dryest summer on record here (I'm in NE Iowa) - maybe 3" total of rain for the entire growing season. With a little supplemental water, and a mostly mild (just plain cool compared to what you've had) first half of the summer, we got good early crops, but the late stuff is really struggling. Had to take the sheep in off pasture as of the first of August, and start feeding hay. Normally, they live on pasture from the first of May until at least the first of November - so that's an extra 3 months of buying hay for them. We've got great grapes, helped along with a small amount of supplemental irrigation - we have deep, clay soil, and grapes like heat and dry for ripening anyway. But the orchard is a disaster. Be lucky if we don't lose a significant number of trees, and the crop is dismal.

That said - there is an old proverb (Chinese, I think), that says "When it doesn't rain, farmers complain; when it rains too much farmers starve," and I think that still holds. I've had way more crops spoiled by too much water and the ensuing disease and rot, than I've ever lost due to drought.
 
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Defenestrar

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Ha! My sister just had a hen show back up with 10 chicks she wasn't expecting to have for the winter. Maybe I should bring her a bag of feed or a heat lamp or something. Guess the coyote/combine/whatever didn't get it after all.

Hmm... 10 chickens, come spring I'll probably have to change my locks if I don't want to wind up coming home and finding that she filled my house kitchen with small to medium eggs.
 
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Lady Godiva

Ars Praefectus
3,394
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I just got seeds for ramps (and a bunch of other plants) in from Prairie Moon Nursery. I have a big tree shaded by boulevard trees, so the area around it is in heavy shade, and very little will grow there. I’m going to plant mushrooms and ramps there, which might actually benefit from the conditions.

According to the company that sold me the seeds, ramps can take 5-7 years before they’re ready for harvest. I’m happy to just let them do their thing, but I’m super curious what the intervening time looks like. Assuming the seeds take, I should still see plants, right? They’ll just be too small to harvest? I realize that this is an ultra-specialized question, of course.
 

.劉煒

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54,024
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Ha! My sister just had a hen show back up with 10 chicks she wasn't expecting to have for the winter. Maybe I should bring her a bag of feed or a heat lamp or something. Guess the coyote/combine/whatever didn't get it after all.

Hmm... 10 chickens, come spring I'll probably have to change my locks if I don't want to wind up coming home and finding that she filled my house kitchen with small to medium eggs.
Lol. I have neighbors who would take extra eggs. That said, the spring rush is done and we're done to a few a week.

Oh for chick/extra coop heat I'm using a pad instead of a lamp now.
 

Tom the Melaniephile

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I just got seeds for ramps (and a bunch of other plants) in from Prairie Moon Nursery. I have a big tree shaded by boulevard trees, so the area around it is in heavy shade, and very little will grow there. I’m going to plant mushrooms and ramps there, which might actually benefit from the conditions.
I've had really good luck with garlic chives in deep shade (Texas).
 

leet

Ars Tribunus Militum
2,401
Subscriptor++
I just got seeds for ramps (and a bunch of other plants) in from Prairie Moon Nursery. I have a big tree shaded by boulevard trees, so the area around it is in heavy shade, and very little will grow there. I’m going to plant mushrooms and ramps there, which might actually benefit from the conditions.

According to the company that sold me the seeds, ramps can take 5-7 years before they’re ready for harvest. I’m happy to just let them do their thing, but I’m super curious what the intervening time looks like. Assuming the seeds take, I should still see plants, right? They’ll just be too small to harvest? I realize that this is an ultra-specialized question, of course.
No advice, but I’m jealous if you actually get ramps. Probably the ingredient we’ve enjoyed the most from our various CSA’s. We try to remember to get to the co-op that sells them each spring when they’re in season, but it’s short season and somewhat unpredictable.
 
It's fall and we're not done!

My wife collected up some hardneck garlic this year, and today, in the rain, I screened out what was left of the previous owner's mint and basil patch, turned it over and dropped a couple of birch logs to frame it in for her new garlic bed. The chickens and cats (well, at least Otis) helped on the job too.

The broccoli plants that got decimated by the slugs this year are making a go of it now that it's cooler and wetter. I may end up with a couple heads in a couple weeks - if we don't get a hard freeze (which is quite possible in our parts). Everything else has been pulled up for the winter.

Now it's a race to get prepped for the livestock before winter arrives...
 
I'm envious. I love hardneck garlic, but haven't planted garlic in several years between a rust infestation one season and general lack of time in succeeding years. It's easier to peel than typical supermarket garlic and has way more of a garlic taste.
We came across a recipe that uses the scapes to make a garlic pesto, I'm kind of curious about that. Also, my youngest decided she likes pickled garlic. Imagine that! Garlic will be in demand next year!
 

walnut close

Wise, Aged Ars Veteran
199
e came across a recipe that uses the scapes to make a garlic pesto, I'm kind of curious about that. Also, my youngest decided she likes pickled garlic. Imagine that! Garlic will be in demand next year!


We plant 180 sets of stiff neck garlic each year, on October 1st (on the Iowa/Minnesota border). Mulch them with about 6" of maple and oak leaves, and that's pretty much the game until they are dug in mid-July of the next year. A bunch goes into pickles an basil / walnut pesto in the freezer of the winter, and of course 1/5 or so of the crop goes back into the ground in October, but the rest we store in the root cellar for regular kitchen use. The bulbs last there through most of a year - occassionally we'll end the next June with a couple of bulbs that haven't been used, and sprout so badly they are have no bulb left, but generally we use it all.

The scapes are pretty tough, in our experience at least. We use them sometimes in pickles instead of garlic cloves. Unlike the cloves, though, they don't come out of the ferment edible - too fibrous.
 
My garden, 8x6, started out as just Caliche . It was 5 years before worms found it to be livable. I used potting soil, garden soil, leaves harvested during the fall and worm castings. Toady I transplanted lettuce and rosemary to their future homes. The garden this year will be just lettuce, carrots, cilantro, radishes ,basil, rosemary and branching onions. I do have 2 tomato plants that survived our 44 days straight of 100 degree plus (avg 105) and our total of 72 days of 100 degree temps or higher. Don't know how they did it with soil temps of 105 degrees plus. My growing season is now 2 months off due to the shifting climate. Normally my tomatoes are planted mid February and I reap my harvest in May and it dies out in June. Now tomatoes look like they need to be grown indoors and set out in late September. Not sure if I'm going to be able to grow tomatoes here in far West Texas anymore.

I do like the carrot hack of cutting the top 1 inch off with leaves intact then soaking them in water till the roots sprout. My first try with this hack seems to be going well if the growth of new leaves is any indicator.
 

wrylachlan

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Now tomatoes look like they need to be grown indoors and set out in late September. Not sure if I'm going to be able to grow tomatoes here in far West Texas anymore.
Having grown tomatoes in south-eastern Senegal where the temperatures can reach 120F for multiple weeks in the hot season, there’s really no reason you can’t grow tomatoes anywhere. The four techniques I used there were:
  • Sunken beds - this gets the roots down into a lower temperature area.
  • White or lite colored mulch - again lowering soil temperature
  • A white screening overhead - tomatoes can grow in Canada so you don’t need all that sunlight and can afford to filter some out in the name of lowering temperatures
  • Water at higher volumes but less often - this encourages deeper rooting putting more of the mass of the plant deeper where soil temperatures are lower.

The other thing you can try if you’re comfortable with grafting is putting a tomato on a Tamarillo trunk. They can last many years developing an extensive root system and giving tomatoes year after year. I’ve not done this myself but an acquaintance of mine had one of these ‘tomato trees’ and swore by it.
 

Carhole

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Well I think it’s official that we need to invest in an orchard spraying trailer. The persistent droughts are doing strange things to the fruit trees including killing the macadamias and creating bumper crops from deeper rooted trees like ulu and avocados but now we have problems with some new pest. It’s eating all of our avocado trees similar to aphids’ approach of harvesting leaf nectar from undersides. It looks like the trees have rust, but close investigation reveals some kind of brown mite. The trees are fighting back but losing this struggle to outgrow the defoliation. As a result the yields of avocados has increased, and I think that the Ulu trees just prefer hot and dry conditions. We’ve never had seasons like this so it’s a learning experience.

The problem with the avocados has me concerned enough that I’m propagating new trees. We’ve already lost one smaller tree and two of our three 40’+ tall trees are dead from about halfway up. Man’s gotta have his plant fat trees!
 

Defenestrar

Senator
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Call up your county (island?) extension office for the university and see if they've got people studying it. Won't solve the need for the sprayer, but they might be able to tell you the life cycle for the brown mites and when to optimize spray. Could even have charts that will help predict outbreaks.

I did similar with my apples and the weather data fed spreadsheet I made up was super awesome for nailing coddling moths at hatching and subsequent generational phases. We didn't do anything with our trees this year (brain surgery was a little distracting) but even the carryover population control from last year had a lasting effect.
 

Carhole

Ars Legatus Legionis
14,461
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Call up your county (island?) extension office for the university and see if they've got people studying it. Won't solve the need for the sprayer, but they might be able to tell you the life cycle for the brown mites and when to optimize spray. Could even have charts that will help predict outbreaks.

I did similar with my apples and the weather data fed spreadsheet I made up was super awesome for nailing coddling moths at hatching and subsequent generational phases. We didn't do anything with our trees this year (brain surgery was a little distracting) but even the carryover population control from last year had a lasting effect.
Great idea, I’ve been asking everyone who visits if it’s a known disease and so far everyone is stumped (harrrr) by the affliction. I’m sure that our local extension will know it. Likely an island or statewide issue by now.
 
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This has been the story of this year up here in northern Vermont... "mud." I don't think we've had maybe one solitary week in total this year where it hasn't rained. The animals have been swimming, the tomatoes blighted early... All in all I'm not complaining though. It's better than it was in Tennessee, going for months at a time without rain (and when there was a chance of rain it was usually accompanied by tornadoes!). It was just a pain in the butt this year because it seemed like every weekend it rained this year making it very hard to get anything done.

PXL_20231029_123919727.jpg

This year definitely hasn't gone according to plan. I still have my bull calf, though he's not so much a calf anymore. Not a lot of people out there wanting to swallow the cost of a nice breeding quality miniature highland bull, especially from a no-name farm/homestead like ours. Herre he is demanding less pics and more food... Since he's apparently part of our family I've decided to name him Nelson.

PXL_20231029_123910825.jpg

Next project will be working on breeding our pigs come late December/early January. Been working on getting them setup for the winter. The boys have definitely ruined their pen, but it's their pen to ruin I guess. It's hard not having as much grass up here than we had in TN, but they're thriving as far as I can tell. Working on getting shelters set up in their new digs so they can be a bit more cozy this winter than last...

PXL_20231028_212308825.jpg

Sorry this was so bloggy, wasn't my intent. Here's looking forward to winter. Another couple months and I'll be out there tapping trees again.
 

KT421

Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius
6,748
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Cleaned up the garden for the fall and sowed a cover crop.

I'm super pleased with how the pumpkins did, given that I didn't even plant them in the first place. We got about 8 good gourds, and maybe 4 more nibbled on by various creatures such that they started to rot. Two have been carved for jack-o-lanterns and I have no idea what to do with the rest. Probably should just spend a day roasting and freezing them but for now they're decoration.

The glass gem corn is great. I left it in a bowl as decoration and they look stunning. But once in a while I put a whole cob into a paper bag and microwave it and we get popcorn! I actually tried taking the kernals off first and popping in a pan, but the microwave-on-cob method is less work, seems to pop a lot better, and the old maids remain stuck to the cob instead of at the bottom of the bag.

Next year will be the first full harvest of the asparagus bed!
 
<tomato stuff>
I think this is solid advice. It's not as hot where I am (long periods of 90's instead of 100's), but I've had good luck with burying the plants deeply and mulching. I did no watering this year, had substantial losses to my chickens and laziness, and we're in "extrordinary drought" per the USDA. And I still had more tomatoes than I wanted to deal with raising of 4 plants.

I've heard about screening and I think that's solid advice, if you don't mind the trouble associated with infrastructure (putting up poles, hanging/storing the cover, etc). There is enough variety in light transmission %'s to cover for any sort of crop.
 

Tom the Melaniephile

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I'm super pleased with how the pumpkins did, given that I didn't even plant them in the first place. We got about 8 good gourds, and maybe 4 more nibbled on by various creatures such that they started to rot. Two have been carved for jack-o-lanterns and I have no idea what to do with the rest. Probably should just spend a day roasting and freezing them but for now they're decoration.
I don't know how much post-roast processing you plan to do, but I like to strip off the skins (to the compost!), put the rest in a large bowl and go at it with the stick blender. Then portion and freeze. In addition to the usual pumpkin bread and such, I like to add it to soups/stews as a thickener - and totally incidentally sneak in some more vegetable content...

Anyway, good on you for your pumpkin crop! In this house I've never managed more than two in a season, and never managed more than one un-chewed.
 

Tom the Melaniephile

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While I didn't grow the pumpkin, I will note it's kind of a hassle to process a 25 lb pumpkin for food...

Emptied, cooked, half the seeds roasted and about half of the cooked flesh has been hit with the immersion blender and packed into 2-cup containers to go in the freezer.

Pumpkin slurry is a critical component for many of my winter stews/soups. Usually 2 cups per batch is perfect.
 

KT421

Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius
6,748
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So I started the season with nine ripe pumpkins, and maybe as many again rotted or nibbled or unripe.

Two became jack-o-lanterns and I attempted roasting the seeds (good but too salty. Adjustments required). One was gifted to family.

Today I went to roast the rest. Two more had acquired nibbles or soft spots so they got yeeted into the compost.

For the remaining four, three got roasted:IMG_6728.jpeg

And pureed:
IMG_6729.jpeg

And now I have waaaaay too much pumpkin puree. 8 cups went into the freezer trays and the rest (approx 8 cups more) in the fridge to wait for their turn in the trays.

The last pumpkin did not get roasted because I was out of pans, and I do not have the wherewithal to do this more than once a year. It will be decor for a while and then yeeted into the compost as well.

I will now be accepting recipes for pumpkin pie, pumpkin bread, pumpkin stew....

[Update] The final total is 14 cups of puree.
 
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Tom the Melaniephile

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Code:
Tortilla Soup

Combine in in large pot:                        Add to each bowl:
4C Broth/stock                                   
1 medium onion, diced small                Half an avocado, diced large
1/2 head of garlic, diced small              Hot soup
28 oz diced SM tomatoes w/liquid        Lime juice to taste
~Half batch* of black beans                 Shred cheese to taste
1 Serrano, diced small
SEEKRIT: 2C pumpkin puree
Shredded chicken or turkey
Medium dollop of red pasta sauce
Dash of cajun salt
Dash of black pepper
Cumin to taste (lots)
Paprika to taste (lots)
Salt to taste

Cook until tender, then add chopped garlic chives (or cilantro or parsley or green onion or beet greens) as a garnish.

Serve with tortilla strips or a warm tortilla

*Batch: Cook 2C of dried black beans with 5C of water, a bit of salt/seasoning and some bay leaves. I use the instant pot. Half of that batch goes into the soup. Or a couple of cans of beans, I guess.

Note: SM is "San Marzano" style tomatoes, preferably with the only ingredients being tomatoes/tomato juice/sauce.
 
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Having grown tomatoes in south-eastern Senegal where the temperatures can reach 120F for multiple weeks in the hot season, there’s really no reason you can’t grow tomatoes anywhere. The four techniques I used there were:
  • Sunken beds - this gets the roots down into a lower temperature area.
  • White or lite colored mulch - again lowering soil temperature
  • A white screening overhead - tomatoes can grow in Canada so you don’t need all that sunlight and can afford to filter some out in the name of lowering temperatures
  • Water at higher volumes but less often - this encourages deeper rooting putting more of the mass of the plant deeper where soil temperatures are lower.

The other thing you can try if you’re comfortable with grafting is putting a tomato on a Tamarillo trunk. They can last many years developing an extensive root system and giving tomatoes year after year. I’ve not done this myself but an acquaintance of mine had one of these ‘tomato trees’ and swore by it.
Having grown tomatoes in south-eastern Senegal where the temperatures can reach 120F for multiple weeks in the hot season, there’s really no reason you can’t grow tomatoes anywhere. The four techniques I used there were:
  • Sunken beds - this gets the roots down into a lower temperature area.
  • White or lite colored mulch - again lowering soil temperature
  • A white screening overhead - tomatoes can grow in Canada so you don’t need all that sunlight and can afford to filter some out in the name of lowering temperatures
  • Water at higher volumes but less often - this encourages deeper rooting putting more of the mass of the plant deeper where soil temperatures are lower.

The other thing you can try if you’re comfortable with grafting is putting a tomato on a Tamarillo trunk. They can last many years developing an extensive root system and giving tomatoes year after year. I’ve not done this myself but an acquaintance of mine had one of these ‘tomato trees’ and swore by it.
It's hard to grow tomatoes when your soil temps reach 110-120 degrees.
 

Tom the Melaniephile

Ars Legatus Legionis
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Fertilizer or sequestration?
Yes! Both.

It's been awhile since I made a batch, but I actually had some energy recently to get stuff done. I'm guessing 15-20 gallons produced in under 2 hours. You could call it 2 batches as I ran two firepits in parallel. I need to find some free #10 cans and try out this guy's method.

Okay, while we're on "technically" some might argue it's not technically fertilizer as it's more of a substrate which holds nutrients, water, microbes and fungi. I will typically "activate" it with compost and/or urine, depending.