Perpetual DIY thoughts, musings, learnings, and small projects

Jump to latest Follow Reply
timezon3

timezon3

Ars Scholae Palatinae
1,477
Subscriptor
  • #7,001
    Finished up the speaker this weekend.
    1000007592.jpg1000007593.jpg1000007595.jpg

    Listening impressions so far - sounds good. Not entirely sure if it's a huge improvement or not, haven't watched a movie with it yet. I also want to try it out as a main speaker (left or right) and try to compare it to the other side. I'll probably grab a piece of plywood and try to make a nicer cabinet for it regardless - wife has already declared this one "ugly" lol.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: N35t0r, Wheels Of Confusion, Carhole and 2 others
    timezon3

    timezon3

    Ars Scholae Palatinae
    1,477
    Subscriptor
  • #7,003
    AmigaPhreak said:
    Assuming you didn't do it off camera, it's generally good practice to put some "fluff" inside speakers or at least cover the insides of the box with some foam of some sort. Helps with cutting down box resonance. Go easy though, since you have a ported enclosure.
    Click to expand...
    Yeah, no picture, but I did indeed throw some polyfill in there before closing it up. I honestly have no idea how much, nor how much there should be, but yeah, there is some.
     
    Ecmaster76

    Ecmaster76

    Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius
    14,670
    Subscriptor
  • #7,004
    timezon3 said:
    I'll probably grab a piece of plywood and try to make a nicer cabinet for it regardless - wife has already declared this one "ugly" lol.
    Click to expand...
    You could probably clean it up a lot just by wrapping the cut edges in a veneer of some sorts

    Maybe replace the drywall screws with some cabinet grade wood screws too. Preferably something like this where the bottom edge of the head is flat. That way you can properly tighten them without damaging the metal frame
    1718137942143.png
     
    V

    Visigoth

    Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius
    6,919
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,006
    Completed the first part of my overarm dust collector for my table saw. It's not perfect, but is pretty much what I designed and prototyped. Will have to add some silicon to the edges since I ended up with a few little gaps here and there due to this being my first time doing anything other than straight cuts with acrylic. You can see some paint transfer from the blade on the one edge which I could try and sand out but for it's purpose I'm fine with it. And might have been a little aggressive with the solvent so there's some blotches here and there, but it's not like this is going to be a display case or anything so some imperfections are fine. Perhaps once I've used it for a bit I might go back and remake it to improve it since with many things I do it seems like I never build it just once.

    Still need to figure out the actual arm part of the mechanism. I was originally planning on using PVC for both the arm and the air flow, but think I'll just go with flex tube instead for simplicity. Also not sure if I'll make it a more free-standing thing or attach it to the wall by the saw. I do know that I want it to pivot so I can move it out of the way instead of having it swing away. Mainly it's due to my layout and having it pivot up and away will ensure that it doesn't interfere with other things in the area.

    20240611_194612.jpg
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Carhole
    D

    Drizzt321

    Ars Legatus Legionis
    28,408
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,007
    Ok, so 1/4" hex to 3/8" or 1/2" socket adapters, and which type of force am I putting on to break them. Is it torque on the shaft, or PSI load that's doing it.

    So I'm driving ground anchors (lag screws) into the ground, very hard pack desert sand or playa (dead alkaline lake bed, dried compacted clay) using my Dewalt XR DCF887. I'm OK spending a bit of extra money, and having 2 or 3 extra spares that hopefully never get used, so while I don't want to spend $$$$$$$, $5-10 an adapter is quite reasonable in my mind.

    Fortunately I found a Project Farm has done it's usual good job with hex adapters

    View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMQoM6drzLs


    Unfortunately, there's no one clear winner of torque on the shaft, or compression/driving strength. I suspect it's more PSI issues, because this is when I've got the anchors well down into the ground and it's starting to turn very slowly, so mirroring the 2nd Impact Test (PSI).

    Looking at both his charts, I'm thinking the Bosch or the Dewalt. I figure both are at or near the top in both tests, and both probably have more consistent quality control even though the video is ~3 1/2 years old.
     
    D

    Drizzt321

    Ars Legatus Legionis
    28,408
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,009
    AmigaPhreak said:
    Wrong tool for the job, I'd say.

    Use a ratchet or get an impact gun meant for bolts instead of screws.

    What you are trying to do will just ruin the tool and the bits/adapters.
    Click to expand...
    You mean an impact wrench?

    Oh, I've snapped more than a few adapters, I consider it the cost of doing business, I just prefer a more durable one that I won't have to keep buying a ton of them, and just keep a handful of reliably strong ones.

    And the price of impact wrenches, ouch. ~$300 for the highest Dewalt 20v ones (already in that battery system).
     
    A

    AmigaPhreak

    Ars Legatus Legionis
    11,399
  • #7,010
    Drizzt321 said:
    You mean an impact wrench?
    Click to expand...
    Yeah. "gun" is a more casual term, I suppose.

    Oh, I've snapped more than a few adapters, I consider it the cost of doing business, I just prefer a more durable one that I won't have to keep buying a ton of them, and just keep a handful of reliably strong ones.
    Click to expand...
    The reason your adapters are breaking is because it is saving your tool from breaking. That's a feature, not a bug. :) It's like the shear pin in a snowblower...it's telling you that you are trying to do too much with the tool.

    And the price of impact wrenches, ouch. ~$300 for the highest Dewalt 20v ones (already in that battery system).
    Click to expand...
    Ratchets are cheap. Harbor Freight tools are cheap. Consider the price of having to replace your impact driver if you continue to abuse it.
     
    D

    Drizzt321

    Ars Legatus Legionis
    28,408
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,012
    AmigaPhreak said:
    Ratchets are cheap. Harbor Freight tools are cheap. Consider the price of having to replace your impact driver if you continue to abuse it.
    Click to expand...
    Um. An impact driver is a lot cheaper than completely destroying my body and getting heat stroke driving in a dozen or more anchors in the middle of the hot desert sun without having any shade, because the anchors are for the shade. That's my philosophy on it anyways. I'm not 25 anymore after all sigh

    And yeah, I'm OK with the adapters breaking at a point, but it seems the cheaper ones I've bought previously tend to break fairly frequently, rather than standing up to the beating and then breaking in the extremes of usage.
     
    C

    Cool Modine

    Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius
    8,539
    Subscriptor
  • #7,013
    Drizzt321 said:
    And the price of impact wrenches, ouch. ~$300 for the highest Dewalt 20v ones (already in that battery system).
    Click to expand...
    Yes, but you will never have to replace another broken adapter. You could look at the DCF921. Basically the same size as the I,pact driver, but with a proper anvil for sockets. And you don’t have to pay full price; shop sales, used, etc…

    I actually sold my DCF899 last year, replaced it with the 921 because I sure didn’t need the power for my usage.
     
    D

    Drizzt321

    Ars Legatus Legionis
    28,408
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,014
    Cool Modine said:
    Yes, but you will never have to replace another broken adapter. You could look at the DCF921. Basically the same size as the I,pact driver, but with a proper anvil for sockets. And you don’t have to pay full price; shop sales, used, etc…

    I actually sold my DCF899 last year, replaced it with the 921 because I sure didn’t need the power for my usage.
    Click to expand...
    This is actually a situation for power. Sometimes the surfaces are extremely hard and compacted, and getting the anchors in deep enough is important.
    I'd rather get the DCF961B, but I suppose the DCF900B is still plenty powerful, and considerably cheaper. Still not inexpensive though.
     
    Whittey

    Whittey

    Ars Tribunus Militum
    1,849
  • #7,017
    6552-95-0220-4.jpg

    l241575.jpg
    or maybe a
    zTH-001.jpg

    I suppose you could call them a bonnet and boot hinge too. Unfortunately, I can't remember the proper name
     
    Ananke

    Ananke

    Ars Tribunus Militum
    1,792
    Subscriptor
  • #7,019
    Pont said:
    2. limits rotation to 45 degrees or 90 degrees, etc.
    Click to expand...
    If possible, rotation limits are best accomplished by some kind of restraint further from the hinge - for example a door stopper, or a chain. It doesn't take a very large hinged surface to allow even a child's muscles to apply a destructive level of force at the hinge due to the mechanical advantage.
     
    leet

    leet

    Ars Tribunus Militum
    2,401
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,021
    We're replacing the decking and rails on our deck next month. Going from 2x4 pressure treated to 2x6 Trex and from a wood railing to a cable rail system. Any tips or hints from anyone who's done something similar?

    A few of the decisions left to be made/changes to the current structure needed:
    (1) Two options to minimize the number of fasteners visible: Fastening the deck boards either by routing a groove and using clips or by using a tool that allows screwing diagonally into the side of the board.
    (2) Adding blocking where the new railing attaches.
    (3) Flashing the tops of the joists, either with tape or with a roll on product.
    (4) Adding low voltage lighting.

    I'll be doing the work with a friend.
     
    W

    waveterrain

    Ars Centurion
    236
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,026
    Thank you to those who offered advice upthread on what to do regarding old wood working equipment. We used that info to set expectations and I think that was accepted as the reality. I was prepared to deal with it on our trip here but due to the heat dome moving over the northeast, our departure was moved up to tonight (flying with a pet which means no flights when it is 85F/29C) so they are still in the shop room and I expect we'll be dealing with in at some point in the coming years under different circumstances.

    I did take some pictures for y'all. As suggested, all dangerous and appears to be 100% scrap. There are some shelves of tool boxes and I am curious is what in those but don't have time to go digging around now.

    IMG_5389.jpeg
    IMG_5393.jpeg
    IMG_5392.jpeg
    IMG_5396.jpeg
    IMG_5390.jpeg
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Scifigod and Defenestrar
    D

    Drizzt321

    Ars Legatus Legionis
    28,408
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,027
    Plenty of dangerous power tools in there. Maaaaybe the band saw and that very deep throat band saw might be useful to someone if you sell it cheap as-is. Even I might not touch it though (assuming I had the space). Find someone who will pay a bit to haul it away for scrap would be my recommendation.

    The hand tools, yeah, as we stated above most are probably not hardly worth anything, but some would be to the right person who likes to fix them up.
     
    Defenestrar

    Defenestrar

    Senator
    13,338
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,028
    Couldn't give you a verdict on the jointer from that pic, but looking at the condition I suspect that even if it had a good set of knives it might be hard to tune (it depends on the condition of the infeed table control/travel). But sometimes all you've got to do is take some #000 steel wool and floor wax to the tables/fence and Bob's your uncle.

    The band saw has a crazy jury rigged lamp that should be tossed (at least that's my interpretation of the extension cord and the lamp cord) but otherwise might be worth it to some hobbyist (again, it depends on whether it can be properly tuned or if there's too much mechanical wear to make it possible). If someone uses it, guards need to be built to cover the exposed belt/pully. The cracked rubber on the visible upper wheel is what tells me that tuning might not be possible.

    If that's a Dremel scroll saw, it's probably still good (as long as it turns on). They're mechanically very simple.
     
    K

    KD5MDK

    Ars Legatus Legionis
    22,652
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,035
    Defenestrar said:
    The cracked rubber on the visible upper wheel is what tells me that tuning might not be possible.
    Click to expand...
    Bandsaw tires are wear items. Replacing them would be expected by any new buyer if it hadn't been done by the seller recently.
    I'd say the Atlas jointer would probably fetch $50 and be someone's restoration project. The bandsaw is probably $100-200, and the scroll saw is probably about $100. The thickness planer probably should go with the jointer if the buyer will take it, there's not a lot of demand for 6" models when the hobbyist standard today is a 12-13" lunchbox style.
     
    D

    Drizzt321

    Ars Legatus Legionis
    28,408
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,037
    Holy crap, I had no idea even low end impact wrenches were so far above what impact drivers can do. Granted, this is all in reverse

    That answers my question, I need an impact wrench for all my desert/Burning Man anchor driving needs. Although I don't think I need that monster DCF961, as much as I want it. If I need that much force to drive the anchors (lag screws generally) into the ground...it'll probably just be tearing off the threads at that point. So the newer mid DCF891 I think is the way to go.


    View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yu1VGp-HSZs


    And second video, just the 891, showing in forward doing 443, but seems like it's still climbing. So probably can reach somewhat higher numbers even. Far better in forward than any of the standard compact impact drivers in forward.


    View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nzGnqBGAtE
     
    von Chaps

    von Chaps

    Ars Centurion
    1,910
    Subscriptor
  • #7,039
    Drizzt321 said:
    Holy crap, I had no idea even low end impact wrenches were so far above what impact drivers can do.
    Click to expand...

    I are confused.

    What are you calling an "impact driver"? Is it an electric screwdriver with an impact setting?

    Cos otherwise, I've never seen an impact wrench. We have drill/drivers and impact drivers.

    I can't imagine anything more powerful than what we call an impact driver.
     
    D

    Drizzt321

    Ars Legatus Legionis
    28,408
    Subscriptor++
  • #7,040
    von Chaps said:
    I are confused.

    What are you calling an "impact driver"? Is it an electric screwdriver with an impact setting?

    Cos otherwise, I've never seen an impact wrench. We have drill/drivers and impact drivers.

    I can't imagine anything more powerful than what we call an impact driver.
    Click to expand...
    Impact driver is a driver that utilizing impact functionality to drive harder with more torque. Here's a video (probably longer than it needs to be). Impact drivers are much more geared towards driving fasteners. Impact wrench is really taking that up a notch to really throw a lot of torque at the problem. However, it's way overpowered (generally) for fasteners/screws/etc, as opposed to things that need a lot of force, especially breaking loose bolts, which is where a wrench is better.

    Also, a driver you need a 1/4" hex adapter to use sockets, whereas a wrench is more focused on just sockets of some sort. Which makes the 1/4" hex adapter the weak part when trying to drive things very hard into very tough surfaces. They're also more compact than a wrench.


    View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43cuU0lP6To
     
    • Like
    Reactions: von Chaps
    You must log in or register to reply here.
    Jump to latest Follow Reply
    Jump to latest Follow Reply