This is why I have half a dozen little systems I can swap parts around in...
Before we continue down the GPU path, are you sure the CPU's not overheating?
Before we continue down the GPU path, are you sure the CPU's not overheating?
Any specific errors in the Windows system logs? Given you're replaced power supply twice, I'd start to suspect something else, but not sure what. Bad memory or GPU?
CPU doesn't get above 70 during gameplay. Idles a bit below 60f. Damn well better be too; have a Noctua NHD15-S Chromax on it.This is why I have half a dozen little systems I can swap parts around in...
Before we continue down the GPU path, are you sure the CPU's not overheating?
Boy, that's frustrating. I would really have expected the power supply to fix that. You could probably still return it and go back to the old one.
From there, it's either motherboard, CPU, or RAM. I would guess that RAM is probably not the cause, since BG3 is the only game doing that, and it's not just a crash, it's an instant hard poweroff. I could see good arguments for either of the other two; maybe the motherboard isn't able to supply enough power, maybe something's busted on the GPU.
Since replacing the motherboard is the single most painful thing to do on a PC, I'd probably try testing with another graphic card first, if you have one available. If you need to buy one, those are also easy to box up and return if they don't fix the problem.
That is a good note, and it is not always obvious either.Dumb, obvious question that we should probably have asked: are you sure your PC isn't actually losing power?
Even a brief brownout on the circuit it's plugged into on could be enough to either trigger a PSU safety mechanism or starve it of enough voltage that it can't support the load anymore.
My PCs (including my gaming PC) are on a UPS, so this isn't something I've had to worry about. If yours isn't, you may want to consider moving other devices off of the circuit the PC is running on, even if only to test.
Dumb, obvious question that we should probably have asked: are you sure your PC isn't actually losing power?
Even a brief brownout on the circuit it's plugged into on could be enough to either trigger a PSU safety mechanism or starve it of enough voltage that it can't support the load anymore.
My PCs (including my gaming PC) are on a UPS, so this isn't something I've had to worry about. If yours isn't, you may want to consider moving other devices off of the circuit the PC is running on, even if only to test.
How much can you swap out?yah, going into a UPS, no clicking and everything else on the desk is powered just fine.
The only time I had ReBAR cause an issue for me, it was due to a marginal riser cable. It didn't cause the system to shut down, just caused games to crash. This was using an nVidia card.Anyone else find something on Resizable BAR causing issues for them?
Long ago back in the Pentium II days I had a new MB where one of the screw mounting holes was slightly off center, and the little flat-head machine screw just barely touched a MB trace that ran near it. Took forever to figure that out, but was obvious once we did. I hate those kinds of problems.I experienced one physically cracked mobo in the past. I imagine that could do it under thermal cycling or vibration. That was a frustrating intermittent problem until it wasn't (intermittent).
Sorry for the bad advice. It really sounded like a bum supply, especially since you'd just installed a new one and then started having issues.Hooray for useless power supply purchases.
Damn him to heck. To heck I say.Glad to hear that you've solved it. That's pretty wild.
Also, thanks for coming back and updating the thread. At least we know you're not DenverCoder9.
Probably try PCI-e 3.0 instead of PCI-e 4.0 is what you're thinking.elsewhere that forcing it down to PCIe 4x or something might help
Check the cable for a part number and check; check the invoice/spec sheet for the cable/case (if it came with the case) as well.ow do I check what the riser cable from my case tolerates
Probably try PCI-e 3.0 instead of PCI-e 4.0 is what you're thinking.
Check the cable for a part number and check; check the invoice/spec sheet for the cable/case (if it came with the case) as well.
Furmark is a static scene. Presumably it can live entirely on the GPU, without a whole lot of data moving across the PCIe connection. The game, in contrast, probably transfers a lot of assets into VRAM as you travel the game world.What girds my loins about this is that it is ONLY BG3. Running Furmark for hours is fine.
The problem is that you don't actually know what the cable quality is. We don't have any way to test them, unfortunately; machines that could do that would cost $KIDNEY.Looking at the case specs, it is already a "high quality" PCIe 4.0 cable. So I doubt that is it. I might try and reseat everything and give it a whirl. What girds my loins about this is that it is ONLY BG3. Running Furmark for hours is fine. Stupid windows!
Even if you consider it unlikely, switch down PCIe 3.0 anyway. It isn't going to cost you anything (the game isn't going to bottleneck on 3.0 x16), and if it works, it works.Looking at the case specs, it is already a "high quality" PCIe 4.0 cable. So I doubt that is it. I might try and reseat everything and give it a whirl. What girds my loins about this is that it is ONLY BG3. Running Furmark for hours is fine. Stupid windows!
Yes, that ReBAR thing is what steered me towards suspecting PCIe problems, too.I think the fact that turning off Resizeable BAR improved your symptoms is probably a big honking clue about what's actually wrong. Unfortunately, I can't think of how to interpret that clue.
That sounds like a possible explanation, certainly worth testing. It may not be correct, but it's a lot better than being totally stuck.So my unsubstantiated fantasy is that the single unreliable wire or contact affects one of the high address bits. And when ReBAR is on, wide addresses are being used, in particular the flaky wire is responsible for transferring an address bit. When it drops out, hilarity ensues.
+++You can always pull the board out of the case and run it caseless without riser, that way you can be certain the issue isn't caused by it.
You can always pull the board out of the case and run it caseless without riser, that way you can be certain the issue isn't caused by it.