HomeKit Trove & Repository: The Definitive Apple Home Automation Resource

Captain Riker

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The house I just moved into has a Yale lock with a Z-Wave module. What do I need to integrate it with HomeKit? I have a HomePod mini here, but that’s about it.
You'll need a Z-Wave compatible Hub like SmartThings or Hubitat, or HomeAssistant with a Z-Wave Dongle. Both Hubitat and HomeAssistant have native integrations with HomeKit, while SmartThings is integratabtle via HomeBridge. I use Hubitat for Z-Wave and ZIgbee devices.
 

Captain Riker

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I use a Starling Hub and it works without issue. Easy setup and it supports other Nest products like cameras, thermostats, etc.

Another Alternative is Homebridge. There are several plug-ins for Nest/Google devices. Though it's a bit more complex as you'll need a linux host to run it. It runs well on a NAS or Raspberry Pi.
 

GaitherBill

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I use a Starling Hub and it works without issue. Easy setup and it supports other Nest products like cameras, thermostats, etc.

Another Alternative is Homebridge. There are several plug-ins for Nest/Google devices. Though it's a bit more complex as you'll need a linux host to run it. It runs well on a NAS or Raspberry Pi.

Also runs Great on whatever Mac you might already have.
 
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mishakim

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The house I just moved into has a Yale lock with a Z-Wave module. What do I need to integrate it with HomeKit? I have a HomePod mini here, but that’s about it.
Depending on the vintage of Yale lock, you can swap out the Z-wave module for something HomeKit native. Choices are iM1 which is HomeKit-only using Bluetooth (discontinued), Yale Access upgrade kit (formerly August) which uses an external BT-WiFi bridge, or the yet-to-be-released-for-real Matter/Thread module. For some reason, they briefly sold the Matter version pre-installed in the prior generation of lock (Assure SL, not SL 2). They have yet to sell it as an upgrade or bundled with SL2. The other Yale option is a WiFi module that works with Siri but not HomeKit.
 

japtor

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My ratgdo came in and I've been using it for a week or so, it's been good (with Security+2.0/yellow button garage). Not sure there's much of note other than...it just works. I don't think the motion sensor has been exposed yet with the current HK firmware, and I'm not sure HK supports partial opening control like I've seen possible otherwise.

But basically it exposes the light and garage and it all just works. Light control isn't terribly useful but it's there. Garage closing is immediate, no delay or beep/flash show like you get with the myQ control.

It was simple enough to install. Hook up to computer to install the HK firmware, connect to wifi (which it did despite saying it timed out), then just unplug the garage opener and swap some wires around to pass through the ratgdo before plugging it all back in. Thought about 3D printing a case, there's a few designs around but for different revisions it looked like, so just went and installed with it kinda hanging off. If my existing wires were a bit longer I'd just keep it in the garage/light enclosure bubble.
 

gregatron5

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I'd like a camera to cover my back… area. I'm contemplating getting an indoor camera and sticking it in the window. I've done that with a Circle View at another place currently and it's… ok. Relatively cheap, but the visuals aren't great b/c of the window especially at night. That said, outdoor cameras are more expensive and harder to install. Plus, it's going to be equally a PITA uninstall it when I move out of here (and I'll have to remember where I stored the current light).

Looking at reviews, it seems like I should be targeting Eve, ecobee, and Aqara, with maybe some Eufy models depending on if they support HomeKit or not. Any thoughts/suggestions?
 

Exordium01

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Depending on the vintage of Yale lock, you can swap out the Z-wave module for something HomeKit native. Choices are iM1 which is HomeKit-only using Bluetooth (discontinued), Yale Access upgrade kit (formerly August) which uses an external BT-WiFi bridge, or the yet-to-be-released-for-real Matter/Thread module. For some reason, they briefly sold the Matter version pre-installed in the prior generation of lock (Assure SL, not SL 2). They have yet to sell it as an upgrade or bundled with SL2. The other Yale option is a WiFi module that works with Siri but not HomeKit.

Do you have any of the iM1 modules? I find that my Yale lock (purchased from the Apple Store) kills the module if I let the batteries get too low. I replace them at 30%-40% and have been fine for years, but I'm on my 3rd module. My first 2 modules stopped working when the batteries got around 20% and replacing the batteries didn't cause the modules to start working again.
 

mishakim

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Do you have any of the iM1 modules? I find that my Yale lock (purchased from the Apple Store) kills the module if I let the batteries get too low. I replace them at 30%-40% and have been fine for years, but I'm on my 3rd module. My first 2 modules stopped working when the batteries got around 20% and replacing the batteries didn't cause the modules to start working again.
I have one iM1 currently, and have not had that problem. I previously had two others, they never died, but the touchscreens did. They were the first generation, Real Living, not Assure SL. I replaced those with Assure SL's with the Connect Kit, which is also what the remaining iM1 is in.
 

mishakim

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I'd like a camera to cover my back… area. I'm contemplating getting an indoor camera and sticking it in the window. I've done that with a Circle View at another place currently and it's… ok. Relatively cheap, but the visuals aren't great b/c of the window especially at night. That said, outdoor cameras are more expensive and harder to install. Plus, it's going to be equally a PITA uninstall it when I move out of here (and I'll have to remember where I stored the current light).

Looking at reviews, it seems like I should be targeting Eve, ecobee, and Aqara, with maybe some Eufy models depending on if they support HomeKit or not. Any thoughts/suggestions?
I'm not thrilled with my Eufy's. I have two C2 and one Pro2, all running off a HomeBase2. They go offline all the time, and I can't find any pattern to it. I think the Homebase is in a good location for signal strength for all three, but that could be part of the problem. Next time I'll get something that connects to my main network, since I can deploy extenders for that.
 

japtor

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I'm not thrilled with my Eufy's. I have two C2 and one Pro2, all running off a HomeBase2. They go offline all the time, and I can't find any pattern to it. I think the Homebase is in a good location for signal strength for all three, but that could be part of the problem. Next time I'll get something that connects to my main network, since I can deploy extenders for that.
I forget which ones I have (I want to say indoor 2K PTZ cameras) but they're connected directly to my network and go offline seemingly randomly too. No clue if that's cause the cameras themselves or something with HomeKit though.
 
I bought a Logi Circle View doorbell for my house, and was annoyed that Logitech's instructions had me disable the rear doorbell. I did some sleuthing around and found a helpful Reddit comment where someone figured out a wiring diagram for have two Logi Circle View doorbells hooked up.

I installed a second doorbell over the weekend following the wiring setup. Everything worked for about two minutes, and then it didn't. So I had a lot of trouble shooting to do. Both doorbells would work initially, but the front doorbell kept going offline. And then my doorbell chimes would randomly ring. Reading online, the doorbell chimes was a sign of fluctuations that cause the chimes to ring. Seeing as the front doorbell worked fine on its own for many months, I zeroed in on the transformer not providing enough power as the problem. I replaced my 16V doorbell transformer with a new 24V/40VA transformer this morning and both doorbells have been working without issue all day.

So if anyone is interested in a Logi Circle View doorbell, it is possible to have two doorbells, but you may need to upgrade your transformer.
 

japtor

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Got this Meross dimmer switch a few weeks back and forgot to post about it:


I got a two pack, they work...mostly. I installed them myself so they might not be installed correctly. One switch has been pretty pretty consistently fine, the other stops working pretty regularly. Luckily there's a simple semi hidden reset switch but still, annoying. Particularly since I use that one for my pseudo entry light automation.

Little notes, to turn on/off you can only use the main switch on the bottom, and the adjustment is something like 10% increments to 50%, then 100%. I noticed with my lights the range felt a bit compressed, so I messed with a setting that lets you adjust the min/max range, which seemed to do the trick.

Recently got back into 3D printing, which expanded into hooking up a Pi + webcam and a lamp for remote printing and monitoring. I got annoyed at going back and forth turning stuff off and on, so decided on a smart switch. Was gonna get some more of the little dual switches I've had, but then came across this power switch:


Anyway, it works. The four outlets are individually switchable, along with the USB ports as one switch. Using the physical button on the strip itself turns them all on/off at once.
 

Captain Riker

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I'd like to know more about integrating the Hubitat hub and Homekit. From the FAQ at Hubitat things look far from simple, in fact a lot of people are writing of problems with integration and that is off putting. Hubitat says nothing about Homekit compatibility.
Odd. The integration was pretty much "turn it on" for me. It came down to:
  1. Install the HomeKit integration from the Hubitat App page.
  2. I then went into the Hubitat app and chose which devices I wanted to share with Home. I have Hue directly integrated with both Hubitat and HomeKit so I unchecked the Hue devices.
  3. Added a new Hub to Home using the QR code provided by the Hubitat app page.
  4. ...
  5. Profit.

It's worked pretty flawlessly since I started. Mind you, there was an experimental integration in use and they only released an 'official' one late last year. I've had a handful of minor issues. I once had to restart the integration after a bad update, but nothing stopped working. Some devices (like 2) were detected as the wrong device type. I was able to adjust that on the Hubitat side.

As with most things, YMMV.
 

gregatron5

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At my last place I had an Ecobee, and I had its remote sensors in all the bedrooms. Don't think I want to buy one for this rental, but I still want to know what the temperature is in the bedrooms in order to see if I can coax this house into a bit more even temperatures.

What's the current go-to for indoor climate sensors? I have a HomePod mini in the main bedroom, but it seems to indicate a few degrees higher than what I believe the temperature to actually be. (And I don't think I want to buy a HomePod each for my 4 and 5 year old.)
 

iljitsch

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I don't have any suggestions for special purpose temperature sensors, but:

If you have a Philips Hue bridge, then see if you can put Hue motion sensors to good use. These of course sense motion, and also light so you can set them up to only turn on the lights when it's dark. And a temperature sensor. Not too well calibrated, though.

(I have five of these, and they are perfect in halways and the kitchen. In my home office and dining room they also work just fine but don't really provide much benefit over the dimmer switches that I also have in those rooms.)
 

Ashe

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More than just temperature is fine. I'm looking for at least temperature, and preferably cheap.

[Edit] Eve Home looks great! Just wish it was $50 instead of $100 :/
Own a couple of Eve homes... pain in the butt to keep charged. The Ecobee sensors were much better since they used button batteries even though some of mine would discharge quicker than others depending (my theory) on how far away they were from the base Ecobee Thermostat. I bought the Eve sensors hoping that it would be an improvement but having to charge them weekly is more of a pain than swapping out button batteries. Although it just occurred to me to check to see if the remote functionality is maintained when plugged in to charge permanently. The screen doesn't allow you to manipulate it when it is charging.
 

gabemaroz

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I'm genuinely curious if the temperature and humidity sensors in the HomePods can be integrated with HomeKit thermostats (such as the Ecobee)? From what I've read it seems like no, but perhaps someone else has some experience here. Feels like a missed opportunity if so.

Also, a motion sensor added to the HomePods and integrated into HomeKit would be absolutely clutch. While I went a bit overboard at the beginning when we purchased our new home, I'm down to just HomePods in every room and Lutron switches everywhere. And even then, only the Lutron's have been 100% reliable.

Everything else I had was just unreliable enough to be more frustrating than useful and was sold at a discount (cameras, smart plugs, environment sensors, etc.). We have remote control operated split-ACs in each room, but may move into a central unit at some later point, so I'm curious to see other's thoughts there.

My wife says my smart home shopping habits are "catch-and-release" so I'm trying to minimize the "release" part before she revokes my license, so to speak. 🤷‍♂️
 

gregatron5

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It seems like TP-Link have a few sensors, but apparently you need their hub and it's unclear if it integrates with HomeKit or not. To be fair, I'm not sure if I need HomeKit integration since at this point I no longer have a smart thermostat and more-or-less just want to check on the temperature. It's just so frustrating trying to figure out how to do what you want to do.

I'm half tempted to roll a Home Assistant thingy since this place has a Z-wave door lock, but then that's a whole nother ball of wax.
 

Mr Slippery

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Lutron's have been 100% reliable
My experience as well, with over 200 devices on my HomeKit network. At the same time, I've found Hue system to be almost 100%, and have rarely had to troubleshoot it. WiFi interference was an issue, and that's because I have two Hue hubs because I have many Hue devices, but enough WiFi putzing has sorted that.

As most have said, the transition to thread / matter has been a giant [profanity]! Thread alone was okay, didn't work as reliably as I had hoped, but usually everything would sort itself out by leaving it alone overnight. One device, a motion sensor, seemed to introduce all sorts of instability, which took a while to figure out. Initially it would be fine, but the thread network would slowly die over the next few days. Matter over thread almost never works out the box and updates are a pain.

For better stability with 2.4 Ghz WiFi devices, I had to rethink some of my mesh child nodes. My first thought was to have an entirely separate 2.4 Ghz system, so I could have wider placement for those nodes and a denser placement for the 5.0/6.0 nodes. But...I couldn't get my separate networks to play nice with each other (the nodes kept mixing together across networks, even when I made them separately, I blame Linksys). What worked instead was nodes with better 2.4 Ghz radios (4 x 4 rather than 2 x 2) which shouldn't have mattered but, I have a lot of 2.4 Ghz IoT devices (40 Lifx lights + switches etc).
 
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gregatron5

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Amazon has this deal on the Tapo Smart Home hub and a temp/humidity sensor. I got that and one other sensor because they were cheap, and I figured if all I want to do is see the temperature I can just use their app.

Turns out the hub has beta support for Matter, and once that is turned on it shows up in Home! So my gamble paid off. Not that I can do much with it still… this house is impossible to properly condition the top floor, but at least I know how bad the temperature differential between floors is. Maybe I'll break down and buy a couple of window units (or complain to the property management company and see if they will).
 

iljitsch

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Yesterday, I got a new AppleTV 4K with Thread support. See the separate thread (huh!) that I created about that.

But I wanted to talk about the difference between the old Eve Energy smart plugs that work over bluetooth and the new ones that work over Thread.

In both cases, the Eve app can observe stuff like power consumption and the mains voltage. With the old Homekit install there was limited support to do stuff with that in automation. For instance, years ago I got a Fibaro smart switch that is meant to go into the wall and in the early days, I could trigger automations off of the energy use dipping below a certain level. Later that stopped working.

But even though I couldn't use the Fibaro or Eve energy consumption level as a trigger in Homekit, I could still use it as a condition. But with this new Eve Energy, it looks like the Home system no longer has access to additional values such as consumption (wattage) and voltage. That's too bad.

But for the old ones it still works even after "upgrading" my Homekit setup. So be sure to keep those old smart plugs, they may come in handy in some situations.
 

gregatron5

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Let's just say "2.4 GHZ" and "5 GHz".

It'd be nice to drop the former, but impossible because even new IoT shit will sometimes only work on 2.4 GHz wifi with WPA2. Granted an argument could be made that it's your fault for buying cheap shit that only supports outdated tech, but it is what it is.

I think I'm going to spin up a VM to play with Home Assistant. Anyone do that and have any pointers or comparisons?
 
For better or worse, 2.4GHz also has better penetration through walls (for obvious radio frequency reasons).

These devices require a phone to be on the same frequency to set up, usually. A lot of WiFi solutions aggregate 2.4GHz and 5GHz into a single SSID. The primary solution, of course, is to force your AP to separate out the bands on separate SSIDs, then put your phone on the 2.4GHz SSID, set up the IoT device, then set the AP back to the way you had it before. That's annoying for me, and probably too high a technical bar for many.

It would be nice if they all supported both, but it's not always obvious that an IoT device does not until you start setup.
 

gregatron5

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These devices require a phone to be on the same frequency to set up, usually. A lot of WiFi solutions aggregate 2.4GHz and 5GHz into a single SSID. The primary solution, of course, is to force your AP to separate out the bands on separate SSIDs, then put your phone on the 2.4GHz SSID, set up the IoT device, then set the AP back to the way you had it before. That's annoying for me, and probably too high a technical bar for many.

It would be nice if they all supported both, but it's not always obvious that an IoT device does not until you start setup.
I used to have an Orbi 5. Since then and now (currently running a Deco with 6E setup), almost all mesh networking solutions (and I'm assuming other systems, too) now enable what's colloquially called an "IoT" network. It's a separately named 2.4 GHz network that bridges to your "main" network. So if e.g. your network is named "SemiWiFi" and that has 2.4, 5, and 6 GH auto-whatever, the system will also create a "SemiWiFi IoT" network that's 2.4 GHz only but is also on the same logical network of "SemiWifi". That way you don't have to go through the network hopping histrionics for a separately named dedicated 2.4 GHz network.

Hell, even the Verizon router I was using before I got the Deco had it. It was disabled by default, but it was there.

This has made setup of some new devices (like inexpensive outlets) a lot easier.
 
These devices require a phone to be on the same frequency to set up, usually. A lot of WiFi solutions aggregate 2.4GHz and 5GHz into a single SSID. The primary solution, of course, is to force your AP to separate out the bands on separate SSIDs, then put your phone on the 2.4GHz SSID, set up the IoT device, then set the AP back to the way you had it before. That's annoying for me, and probably too high a technical bar for many.

It would be nice if they all supported both, but it's not always obvious that an IoT device does not until you start setup.
I've always heard about this and seen the warnings on a bunch of stuff I've gotten, but I've never bothered messing with any settings and just crossed my fingers. Luckily crap has just worked, somehow. To get set up at least. Some stuff randomly drops but don't notice much, that's usually like months of working fine I think.

Looking at my eero's settings...I'm not sure it's even possible to split things up like that. Yay simplification to the point of completely obfuscating or making useful things impossible!

----------

Speaking of things stopping working randomly, my ratgdo stopped working a little while back. Completely dropped off the network, unplugging/restarting didn't work, light flashed on then dead. Looked things up and found out about a bug that soft bricks the device, like memory corruption or something. Had to flash new firmware from a computer to get it going again.