The *new* Perpetual Photography Thread

TheGnome

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Not all lenses work well for IR / UV photos.

I had converted an old Nikon d100 and was really disappointed how bad my 70-300 was. It lost an extra stop over the kit lens I had at the time. This was forever ago(almost 20 yrs?), so may not matter anymore.
Lenses are definitely an issue with IR; you can get hotspots that you don't see in visible light, and because of the way IR refracts, you can't really use apertures smaller than f/11. I've got a nice 60 mm f/2.8 macro, which I haven't yet tested because I need a stepping ring to get the filters on it, so I'm using the 18-300 f/5.6 kit lens. Obviously a zoom with that range is going to exhibit some compromises; even with visible light, it's not particularly sharp, it vignettes badly at shorter focal lengths, and it's obviously slow as hell. But it is very flexible, has image stabilization and the autofocus works acceptably well. So I can live with it for the time being.

Another thing to consider is that, when shooting IR, you actually want harsh mid-day light, so you don't need the fastest optics and detector sensitivity isn't limiting.
 

View: https://www.instagram.com/p/C1qcc0aM1dT/


When I started shooting 120FPS video of local sports, a lot of people didn't get it at first: they thought I was just a camcorder guy and the high school just had expensive robotic cameras installed indoors and out that upload in real time to YouTube and Facebook. On the one hand, that's great (especially post COVID), but on the other, the robot completely missed that dunk. Grandparents watching on Facebook never got to see it because it happened off-screen: the algorithm had decided that there was enough movement by cheerleaders on the far side of the court that it should be watching over there and by the time it realized it should be more sticky on the ball, it was too late to pan towards the action. Its amazing that simple quantitative movement predictions can mimic a human editor but they can fail spectacularly ESPECIALLY when something spectacular is happening because it's outside of the averages that its built for. So I'm not being replaced this week, anyway.
 

TheGnome

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Went for a walk on a beach near Saint John this past weekend. It was a cold grey rainy day, and I didn't see much of visual interest. The sea weed (Fucus sp.) on the rocks had interesting textures, but it's a greyish green/brown and does not contrast well with the brownish grey sand or greyish brown rocks. However, it appears that sea weed is very reflective in the infrared, while the sand is not. I took several shots I find interesting; here's an example.
IR_seaweed.jpg
 
Went for a walk on a beach near Saint John this past weekend. It was a cold grey rainy day, and I didn't see much of visual interest. The sea weed (Fucus sp.) on the rocks had interesting textures, but it's a greyish green/brown and does not contrast well with the brownish grey sand or greyish brown rocks. However, it appears that sea weed is very reflective in the infrared, while the sand is not. I took several shots I find interesting; here's an example.
Wooow! That looks amazing! Like o photo from pinterest
 
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phlaym

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Finally got around to scanning the roll of film I shot last fall. I kind of dig the light leak in the second image, but that was not planned at all.
Yashica FX-3 with a Tokina RMC 28mm F2.8 lens. Kodak Gold 200 film. Scanned the negatives, but didn't get around to do any additional processing yet
08_compressed_s1.jpg


09_compressed_s1.jpg
 

Neill78

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Finally got around to scanning the roll of film I shot last fall. I kind of dig the light leak in the second image, but that was not planned at all.
Yashica FX-3 with a Tokina RMC 28mm F2.8 lens. Kodak Gold 200 film. Scanned the negatives, but didn't get around to do any additional processing yet
But what did you do with the Master Sword??
 

View: https://www.instagram.com/p/C2NaE1HLggI/


I'm pretty proud of that shot/edit but when you're filming in slow motion, your focus lagging feels really noticeable, although probably more to me than someone who only looks at it once. What I could do better is give up one of my current buttons (probably clear image zoon) for auto-switching between "zone" (necessary for trying to shoot between people blocking me once the front court is full) and "wide," for fast breaks like that. (When you're on wide, you can use the act of zooming itself as a focus selector in situations like that.) I'm going to investigate doing that over the weekend. OTOH, I wonder if Sony GM lenses would help with that too, over my Tamron gear (or my Sony G primes), since I often find my shots back-focused in photography in similar situations and I'm not using the wrong focus parameters there.


View: https://www.instagram.com/p/C2ViKvAvb6R/



I normally don't do LUTs or gimmicks but I wanted to celebrate the kids winning league for 11 years in a row so I went with a tri-tone since it was a blue vs. purple matchup (so I could dodge skin tones) and I had practiced the color scheme, partially, on a basketball game last week.

Wrestling refs are super cool and generally let me on the mat when there are multiple matches going on because they know I'm doing something, even though none of them have an idea what I'm really doing, speed ninja-walking in a circle with a giant rig inches from the ground. It took me almost a whole day to edit a single meet because I try to pare things down to the bare minimum to tell the story while having a fairly strict "no one's butt is pointed directly at the camera for more than half a second" rule, something I work towards in both filming and editing. That alone makes my cuts different from virtually every other lazy tripod user/editor tossing wrestling content up on youtube.

Part of that, is when I first typed in "how to film amateur wrestling," a decent video -- in terms of focus/light/framing/etc. -- popped up of a match between a high school aged male and female competitor. I have metrics turned on for the play bar so I could see how audience engagement with the clip went: the wavy line graphed out how many people tuned in or checked out at various moments. During a section where the female competitor was pushed face down, with a down blouse angle, engagement basically went to the stratosphere and then cratered after. So it's something you always have to be aware of since you never want to do more harm than good in these days of social media.
 
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Aeonsim

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Aeonsim

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Are there a lot of accommodations?

It seems to have vast stretches of undeveloped coast.

Similar to way up north towards Cape Reinga.
Accommodation would be renting a bach/Holiday home so not cheap (in NZD) or a possibly a plot at one of the camping grounds in the area which would be cheaper. Matarangi is rather small around 700 people typically but increases to 7,000 during the holidays so if you time it when it's not a public holiday or peak holiday season there is a lot of accommodation vacant. There are plenty of other small settlements in the area that cater to holiday makers, AirBnB has around a thousand places in the wider area (30-40min drive around this beach), and there are other camping grounds and houses that are rented out through alternatives like bachcare, bookabach and holidayhomes.co.nz. There are a number of other beaches and holiday towns at at them.
 
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Aeonsim

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And markets and restaurants would be about 30-40 minutes away as well?

BTW, first time I've heard of "bach." Guess it's specifically a NZ thing.

Bach is NZ slang for a small holiday home (historically often DIY), in some parts of the south island crib is also used.

Most of the settlements will have a cafe/restaurant nearby. Matangi had a small grocery store, a liqueur store, golf course and restaurant. With another restaurant about 10-15mins away. Whitianga which is 20mins away is a more substantial settlement with a dozen restaurants and most of the amenities you might expect. The Coromandel Peninsula is significantly more developed around the beaches than the area around Cape Reinga, but the terrain significantly limits the extent of the development.
 
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There is no way I didn't catch some form of plague from this... This is my first time being surrounded by this many people, sardine style, since "the event." At any rate, covered my first cheer competition and the video came out fairly well for being a noob:


View: https://www.instagram.com/p/C22xT0RLYmW/

edit: for some reason, reels I post to Instagram (automatically crossposting to Facebook), using my phone, look 3x better on my phone using the app than they do on my computer and I don't think it's just my browser doing the cheapest form of integer scaling they could come up with because it still looks 2x better than what the same reel looks like on Facebook (so 5x worse than the original), which just started giving really terrible bandwidth to all videos (20x worse) unless someone deliberately clicks on them.
 
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A solar filter for the 4/8 eclipse! (The Baader ASSF-80, to be precise.) It definitely works! Photo at f9, 1/500, ISO 100, at 600x1.4mm.

What would you suggest for a noob who wouldn't even know how to hook that up? I basically just have 67mm 8-stop VNDs (probably more like 6 stop in practice).

Photo tax:


View: https://www.instagram.com/p/C3x3gOaLhov/


I'm having fun with basketball this week. I'd kill for 180FPS shooting with full features (240 is probably unnecessary and it turns off audio recording and sometimes face/eye tracking on most cameras. An extra 60 frames would be nice though.)
 

mlewis

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What would you suggest for a noob who wouldn't even know how to hook that up? I basically just have 67mm 8-stop VNDs (probably more like 6 stop in practice).
Buy a pre-made solar filter with mount of a suitable size for your lens or buy solar film (like the mentioned Baader ASSf) and make a mount for your lens from some cardboard, double sided tape and glue. Get the film rated for vision (there is photo only film that blocks less light but that is dangerous to look through.

https://www.baader-planetarium.co.uk/product-category/solar-astronomy/

I made a solar filter for my telescope with the film. The packet came with instructions. It is pretty easy.

DO NOT USE NEUTRAL DENSITY FILTERS TO LOOK AT OR PHOTOGRAPH THE SUN UNLESS YOU WANT TO DAMAGE YOUR CAMERA OR BLIND YOURSELF.
 

continuum

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If you're taking a landscape with a wide angle then it's like any other sunny day. Sorry that was not clear from your initial question 4 posts up.

Edit: this is the Perpetual Photography Thread where we're meant to share our best work, this topic might be best forked off into the Perpetual Photography Accessory thread, or maybe into its own thread given how popular the April 2024 total solar eclipse is likely to be.
 
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1Zach1

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This is a difficult target for me, but it's one of my favorite night sky objects. It never gets very high in the sky, and when it is up, it's during the worst time of year for me as we rarely get clear nights and when we do I tend to get lots of fog/smoke being that I'm just low enough in a valley. I also don't have a great set up for it, it's pretty small for my regular telescope and camera, but my much larger telescope is way too deep and I couldn't get anything out of it. So this is a heavy crop.

NGC 2359, aka Thor's Helmet.

small-DenoisethenSharpened.2024-02-26Final.jpg
 

Ananke

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Out birdwatching at Grandefjæra, to see what (if any) migrants have shown up yet. Not very much yet - just a few of the early greylag geese and whooper swans; but they're good targets for photography - they fill enough of the frame from a lot further away than gulls or tits.

Mind you, some subjects just can't help literally taking the crap.

IMG_5870_crop.jpg
 

TheGnome

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Playing around with a new-to-me Lumix S 70-300 on my Leica SL2-S



ƒ/7.1, 265.0 mm, 1/800. 16000 ISO

Still cannot get my head around 16k ISO
Wow; there's some noise in the out-of-focus areas, but you've really got to go looking for it. Very nice. Might be good for astro?

We had an ice storm here, and while winter is definitely not optimal for infrared, I think the icy trees look quite interesting in IR:
icy_trees.jpg
Icy bushes - Flikr link

{edit to add Flikr link to full res image}
 
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Jonathon

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Wow; there's some noise in the out-of-focus areas, but you've really got to go looking for it. Very nice. Might be good for astro?

We had an ice storm here, and while winter is definitely not optimal for infrared, I think the icy trees look quite interesting in IR:

View attachment 77094

{how do you post the full-resolution image?}
You post to Flickr or imgur or somewhere else, then link here-- Ars always resizes image uploads.
 
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Wow; there's some noise in the out-of-focus areas, but you've really got to go looking for it. Very nice. Might be good for astro?

I will take noise in the OOF areas all day long if it means that I can push ISO that high.

I have never tried Astro, perhaps that is something that I will attempt this year :)
 
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