The *new* Perpetual Photo Accessory thread


View: https://youtu.be/SNTrLG5pvHo?t=89


The worst thing about these "autofocus tests" is they're testing the camera, not the lens. Yeah, the camera can use the footage the lens helps to provide to draw a box around something and encourage the lens to "be there" but that doesn't mean the lens gets there. And the camera doesn't require sharp focus by the lens to find the patterns it associates with human faces, only a level of brightness/contrast (hence face detect working worse in LOG video until more recent generations). These tests are one step above the petapixel/dpreview "look how snappy it goes from this fence post to infinity" focus "tests." I've made this exact gripe before here, I know, but the absolute lunacy of the this video where he's standing at roughly the same distance and leaning left and right as if it means something with near scientific certainty besides giving his camera a workout...

I take a lot of pictures with camera/lens combos that are only 2-3 years old: many of my pictures aren't what I consider critically sharp -- the singular photography buzzword that I think is a real thing -- and that's with my camera having put the face or eye boxes on things. Either the lens was overconfident in saying that it had reached the correct place in time when it actually hadn't, or the camera and the lens together couldn't keep up with the chaos around me. Sure, in most cases, these pictures are still sharp enough for social media. They're better than the competitions'.

They still don't convince me that my equipment couldn't be better or more effective and I'll still choose the critically sharp photos for my portfolio. This isn't just sports but in situations like mermaid parades or polar bear swims or kids in funny hats events where I attempt to shoot one portrait a second for two or three minutes straight, trying to get well framed/timed portraits of over 100 people; I put my autofocus through the ringer.

Video is more forgiving, in general, but since I shoot at 120FPS and often slow down to 25% speed in edits, those face detect boxes are often more generously supplied by the camera than is delivered by the lens in actuality. That doesn't mean these lenses perform better at 24FPS, only that you're less likely to see the misses and can't examine for critical sharpness. If you look at the exact frame that I linked to in the above video, that eye box had not yet caught up with his eye... Mash spacebar to pause at random during that segment and ask yourself what would happen if the camera did take a still at that moment were the lens to actually be focused on that box.

And, of course, the focus breathing section in that review is almost as long as the autofocus section, where many words are written about how an advantage of the Sony lens is the breathing compensation on newer cameras: if you have it turned on, your image will be cropped at all times to match the "worst possible situation" of breathing, so enjoy your 20% fewer pixels or whatever in ALL of your shots. No semi-demi-hemi-pro (who makes money off of their work outside of youtube) would engage that the majority of the time (which is why semi-pros are bitching about the lack of luts coming to the A7S3 and not rejoicing about focus breathing compensation), and hollywood types love lenses with extreme breathing characteristics.
 

Aleamapper

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Just in case anyone is interested in a quick review of the Insta360...

So far I'm really liking it. It's been out on two fairly heavy MTB trips, one in utterly miserable weather in a fairly dense/dingy wood, and a second to the same place but in beautiful sun. Both times the footage was pretty good - not amazing, but more than enough for recording memories. I think the GoPro Max has slightly better image quality, particularly when zoomed in, but thats from memory! There's not much leeway for zooming in, there's something slightly low-bitrate about everything (even though its on max) with some detail becoming 'sparkly', and the radius of artifacting around the seams is quite big (enough to occasionally make my hands look funny if they creep into shot), but I'm still very happy with it. Most importantly, it makes it look like I'm going quick :judge:

The software is pretty great. On my M1 MBP it feels like a proper mac app, even on battery it loads pretty much instantly, importing is instant (from local storage at least), exporting happens about 4x realtime and there's no detectable change to how responsive the app is while its exporting, so you can be working on your next video with no issues. The target tracking works, mostly, the key-framing also works how you'd want it...all round I've got very few complaints.

Overall, pretty happy, a solid 7.5/10 - just let down a bit by image quality.
 
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I went on an 8-mile run with my phone today to scope out possible eclipse picture locations since the sun will be in roughly the same position two days from now at the same time (I'm in the totality, east of Niagara Falls on lake ontario, expecting it at about 3:30 EST) and...

* the sun is way higher at this time than I was expecting. It'll be just about impossible to get a money shot of people + local landmark + sun in frame at the same time, even shooting from actual dirt level. Maybe if I owned a 12mm fisheye or something. I tried under bridges, underpasses, etc. -- maybe if I rented a kayak and went out into the creek (it's a river by worldwide standards) and shot up from there, but that's something I'd want to practice before trying it with my camera gear... I think all the niagara falls people are going to be disappointed too, except for the one person who manages to scope out a spot with the perfect angle from the cave walkway ahead of time and manages to get to the same spot in the crowds. Otherwise, it's just looking up and you can do that anywhere.

* The sun is south so unless you're on a boat looking inland, there's no point heading to the beach unless you're just after people. I still might go there and drag my dad along.

* The sun is high but not high enough for any of my favorite clearings in the woods -- which is mostly all flooded around here, anyway. I heard a laughing fox but mostly ended up just mucking up my shoes trying to get to some of my favorite spots. If things were dry, with enough time on Sunday, I'd probably have been able to find a trail pointing in exactly the right direction to show the sun between the trees though. I'm not sure the shot would be worth missing out on people though.
 
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I was given some medium format negatives from the 1970s to scan. I kinda hate scanning technology because I bought a very, very expensive scanner my senior year of college and windows 95 software + SCSI did not age well at all despite the actual hardware holding up. And it seems like the scanning companies saw not updating software as a method of pushing new hardware. "Oops, you have a giant paperweight now if you upgrade your OS!" So mine sat in my dad's workshop for like 15 years before he convinced me to junk it on an electronics-garbage-day. For the current task I borrowed one my dad had laying around that he abandoned after getting an ALL-In-One printer unit.

So I have this Epson V550 with software that also hasn't aged well: the preview and scan buttons on the interface are actually invisible until you click on them (I'm not even using a high rez display) so I didn't even find them until I saw where they should be in the instruction PDF and decided to click in the blank gray area and they magically responded. /facepalm

Most of the strips are hand cut and about 13" long so they don't actually fit all the way in the scanner, or at least under the area with the top light, so I have to kinda drop them on the plate and hope for the best as to whether or not it's crooked (I can't butt them up against the edge since the top light doesn't extend all the way and using even a credit card as a spacer added reflections). If you listen to the internet, medium format has infinite detail and I should be scanning at 10K+ DPI. In practice, it looks like 3200 is fine and might actually be overkill when it comes to producing actual grain and not fake data. 2400 is probably more realistic.

My biggest mistake was creating a photoshop action where I'd apply a stock Adobe Camera Raw Filter setting (mostly to drop highlights to -95 and then add some brightness back in), apply a moderate Luminar AI filter, and then save_as to a separate folder. This worked for the color shots since I had to manually adjust the Raw Filter to correct color but was less worried about the black and whites: when I created the Camera Raw action for them, I healed some spots in the first picture and forgot I was recording so it started tearing holes into subsequent pictures that didn't have those spots.

At any rate, while there's some damage, the stuff looks great for being from 50 years ago:

53635683052_4ac423b3cf_k.jpg
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It's been a rewarding project and wish I could be doing it with better gear. But youtube has a whole section of "I bought a $20,000 scanner (from 1999) for $500" videos where they have to keep a Powermac G3 around just to use the thing and that's not my current lifetstyle. But I'm not terribly convinced that there's a lot of detail that I'm leaving on the table, either.
 
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Paranoid Android

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I recently acquired a slightly older gen Sony A7 series. It's got the 28-70mm kit lens and a Sony FE 50mm 1.8. I'm a longtime Canon user, so I'm not familiar with Alpha gear. Intended use is mostly for urban/street photography, general purpose travel, and some short range nature photography, meaning pictures of whatever wild animals I might encounter at a park or campground.

Does anyone have any suggestions for additional lenses to consider for these use cases? I'm looking for a versatile all-around lens and maybe a modest telephoto lens in particular.
 
The 50mm is fine, especially if you're not doing video. They cut corners on the weather sealing though compared to most other Sony pieces so be a little more careful with it.

I don't know what street photography means to you (or anyone, really), but E-mount isn't really adept at pancake style lenses and the only thing that comes close is the Samyang/Rokinon 35mm F2.8 FE. The Sony 50mm F2.5 is also pretty tiny and while it's much better in every respect (sharper/less fringe/zounds better autofocus/weather resistance) but light gathering than your current 50, you probably don't want to duplicate a focal length you already have.

The Tamron 20-40 F2.8 is reasonably priced if you don't want to jump in on a full 20-70 F2.8 and probably well suited for "street" and it can function as a 60mm in crop mode if you want to do a classic portrait without distortion. Otherwise there are all sorts of primes at 28 or 35mm that street fans are probably happy with. Samyangs and Viltrox are the "low" tier with the former tending to reward risk takers (wow, that's a low f-stop for the money but will it hit focus?) with Viltrox being more conservative. They're all pretty solid for this usage but you'll want to be a bit more careful with them than a Tamron or a Sigma that are built more sturdy for the most part (and Tamron and Sigma's newer stuff is on an autofocus tier that's much closer to Sony's best, although doesn't catch it).

Don't take this list as gospel, it hasn't been updated in forever and has certain biases (mostly towards products they have reviews for and there are biases towards which stuff gets reviewed at all):


As for your telephoto: it really comes down to "do I want to take a picture of a critter so I have a picture of it" or "do I want to take a picture that will make someone go 'whoah'" -- and for that you'll probably need at least a "budget" 100-400 (I'm an evangelist for paying more for the Tamron 50-400 so you can take a wider shot as well). But even the cheapest and smallest ones are a lot to carry around. And if you get into it, you'll often find that you wish you had a 150-600.

If you want something affordable to just leave on your camera all the time, though, the Tamron 28-200 F2.8-5.6 is a safe bet, although it's not unassuming for "street."
 

Finally, there's an EIS 'High' mode that can be applied during movie shooting. This crops in slightly further (to 1.4x), allowing the correction of a greater magnitude of camera movement, but also attempts to correct perspective distortion. Essentially this avoids the wobbly corners that can otherwise occur when using wide-angle lenses.

I've seen videos (produced this week, post update) that show this to be pretty impressive even as it's something Panasonic has always been good at with smaller cameras. I can't ever get Resolve to stabilize anything usefully besides the "camera lock" setting when you're trying to handhold a long shot. Anything else and it's ultimately too warpy or too much of a crop. So I do wish my camera did this better and that Sony didn't require a rental-app ($x/month for advanced features) to do anything interesting with their cameras, mostly because, I've heard, that the app allows them to get around patents that doing the same stuff in-camera would require. I don't know if that's true but would it shock me?

The rolling shutter on the S52 would be a bit too much for me despite Panasonic getting most of the same lenses that I have access to in e-mount; I'd be sunk with my A74 if it didn't have an APSC mode that rivaled the A7S3 for video. And I didn't really understand that going into my purchase so I mostly got lucky.

It's not just for sports: I was watching a review of the new Burano


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ye5-g9tfNQ


And the relatively poor rolling shutter definitely came into play during a cooking show when they did a pan with a 400mm lens just from one person to another across a countertop. It's not until you start to do video with longer focal lengths that you come to really feel how much your readout speed is killing you.

As someone who once dreamed of having a FX6 -- before learning that my community is underserved for photographers despite a glut of them -- I no longer really see the value in a bunch of side buttons. Built in ND filters are still great (when they don't make all your blacks red like the Burano's seem to!), but the box camera platform seems to no longer provide any real function besides letting companies create SKUs to lock off time code and other features from "photography" cameras like the A7S3 (which is how Sony sees it which is why it doesn't have LUT support).

And even though the Burano takes CFX-B cards, the camera will always flash a warning that they're not rated for the right speed because even the biggest manufacturers with the best factories are refusing to pay a grading tax. Interesting times, I guess.
 
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Guardian Weekly readers: share your best recent pictures with us​

Share your recent photos and tell us where you were and why that scene resonated with you


We’re now on the lookout for our readers’ best photographs of the world around us. For a chance to feature in the magazine, send us a picture you took recently, telling us where it is in the world, when you took it and why the scene resonated with you at that particular moment.

A few pointers:
  • Try to upload the highest resolution possible. The limit for photo uploads is 5MB.

Ah, legacy media... don't ever change...
 
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Paranoid Android

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The 50mm is fine, especially if you're not doing video. They cut corners on the weather sealing though compared to most other Sony pieces so be a little more careful with it.

I don't know what street photography means to you (or anyone, really), but E-mount isn't really adept at pancake style lenses and the only thing that comes close is the Samyang/Rokinon 35mm F2.8 FE. The Sony 50mm F2.5 is also pretty tiny and while it's much better in every respect (sharper/less fringe/zounds better autofocus/weather resistance) but light gathering than your current 50, you probably don't want to duplicate a focal length you already have.

The Tamron 20-40 F2.8 is reasonably priced if you don't want to jump in on a full 20-70 F2.8 and probably well suited for "street" and it can function as a 60mm in crop mode if you want to do a classic portrait without distortion. Otherwise there are all sorts of primes at 28 or 35mm that street fans are probably happy with. Samyangs and Viltrox are the "low" tier with the former tending to reward risk takers (wow, that's a low f-stop for the money but will it hit focus?) with Viltrox being more conservative. They're all pretty solid for this usage but you'll want to be a bit more careful with them than a Tamron or a Sigma that are built more sturdy for the most part (and Tamron and Sigma's newer stuff is on an autofocus tier that's much closer to Sony's best, although doesn't catch it).

Don't take this list as gospel, it hasn't been updated in forever and has certain biases (mostly towards products they have reviews for and there are biases towards which stuff gets reviewed at all):


As for your telephoto: it really comes down to "do I want to take a picture of a critter so I have a picture of it" or "do I want to take a picture that will make someone go 'whoah'" -- and for that you'll probably need at least a "budget" 100-400 (I'm an evangelist for paying more for the Tamron 50-400 so you can take a wider shot as well). But even the cheapest and smallest ones are a lot to carry around. And if you get into it, you'll often find that you wish you had a 150-600.

If you want something affordable to just leave on your camera all the time, though, the Tamron 28-200 F2.8-5.6 is a safe bet, although it's not unassuming for "street."
Thanks for the suggestions. The Tamron 28-200 looks promising.

When I say "street photography" what I'm thinking is: Lots of dynamic movement, mostly closer ranges, capturing fleeting moments. It isn't so much an issue of being discreet per se, but rather an emphasis on agility, portability, and speed.
 
Ok then. I always have to ask because it can also mean jumping out in front of random people and yelling "boo" or something.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54ufgxhOCHQ


Color slice tool for Resolve 19.

I have a lot of problems in this one university gym where the team color is orange and I have a hard time reducing the cast for video. I basically have to remove skin tones and then add them back in so people look right since it's obvious if you just push away from orange. Not sure if this will help but I'm looking forward to the non-beta release.
 

Alex%20Pereira%20Jamahal%20Hill%20041324%20crop.jpg


I noticed what I assume are Lumix BGH1s around an event on TV last month and when I googled, I didn't see any information back then. As a camera nerd, seeing ~4 cameras on posts per edge really caught my eye and I tried to figure out what they were doing with them: the only cord seemed to be ethernet power over which they can also "stream" via a firmware update that was given to the BGH1 post launch. (Previously the ethernet only did camera controls?) I'm not sure if the stream is equivalent to 100% HDMI quality output though.

The cameras are mounted close to the fence but not close enough for my comfort (I do a lot of through-fence filming), although as 4/3s the lenses might be pretty tight and perhaps might only be focusing on the far center to complete opposite side of the cage, whereas my full-frame equipment is much larger and can catch the fence without a low F-stop. I couldn't detect any footage in the actual broadcast that I believed came from these cameras... Until I saw the above headline this morning, I assumed it was just getting data for their videogames or some other telemetric usage, especially since some number of cameras were obviously down and shoved to the side (or were in position but had a green light on the back rather than red).

Every once and a while social media feeds me ads for broadcast lenses that are no joke:


I'm not sure a "3K" micro 4/3 camera even with a prime lens can slot seamlessly into a broadcast but maybe there were a bunch of shots and they were just solid enough to be transparent. There did seem to be fewer than average still-photographers in attendance that night so maybe those are the people being replaced (BGH1s can do that as well and strangely only via link cable)?

As a camera nerd though it's an interesting experiment even though it threatens what I do, at least on the physical side, if not editing/production.
 
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I'm lucky enough that all my lenses have automatic profile corrections in Adobe stuff so I never even have to think about them or pick something that's "close enough" or whatever.

Had a job shooting tennis and I have a hard time not being too aggressive with my zooming. My favorite shots are through the back fence with a 400mm which actually gives a decent amount of separation between the back court subject and the fence behind them, compared to being inside the fence on the corner with a 200mm. But, because of that, I have a lot of racket edges and extremities that are close to the edge of the frame.

When I previewed the images in the folder with window's photo viewer, arrow-keying through them, it's like, "doh, that's close to the edge!" When I brought them into Adobe those same racket tips and hands were off the edge of the frame and I'm like WTF? Until I remembered I could uncheck lens corrections and claw that 1.5% crop back. I only needed to do it for about three pictures and they still look fine, of course, but now I'm remembering images in the past where I had stuff that was super close to the edge and I could have benefitted from at least checking the uncorrected image...

Maybe this is obvious to everyone else but this is like the first time I've had to use the "optics" tab on purpose and it was to deselect something. /embarrassed
 

fairly hilarious.


These are APSC lenses, mostly. Fuji must be really killing it or maybe the A6700 is really taking off; even as a Sony owner, I can't ever even guess what model someone else is shooting with now that the Cs are around as well so you can't even decide based off of the size/grip.

The reviews are quite favorable for the new Sony 16-25mm f/2.8 G (most indicating it's worth the 30% price premium over 3rd party options) but it still has a hard time selling itself to me: it basically replaces two wide angle primes but it doesn't really zoom enough (compared to their GM 16-35) to be a lens someone like me would want to leave on all day. And if you have to go to your bag because you want something wide, shouldn't it be a prime, especially since a faster lens is often necessary for separation at that focal length? Granted, infinite people aren't me and a non-GM lens should be at every point in their ecosystem but at over $1000, it's still a lot of money for someone who doesn't do urban architecture exclusively.
 

Aleamapper

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For anyone who's interested in the Insta 360 X3...

So it turns out that even though the website for the X3 very, very specifically, without any asterisks, claims 4K resolution at 60/50/30/25/24fps in 360º mode...
Y5lDzeV.png

...the actual resolution of the output is limited to 1080p.

Yes, I should have realised that, given that the 5.7k figure is for a whole lens, but it's seems pretty damn scummy to not mention that on the specs page and try and sell it as 4k output.

Oh well, lesson learned. At least I'm gonna save money upgrading to the X4!
 
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And it looks like the 8K of the new one is really 4K in practice? (or maybe ok 1080p vs. terrible 720p]


View: https://youtu.be/tVFrcyUdqn4?t=263

[timestamp at 8K vs. 4K comparison once framed]

I don't think I'd have time for two steps worth of editing for every shot I take (reframing from footage in app and then my actual video editor) but I do think that occasionally having the spinny epic mode shot or whatever for revealing a whole environment quickly would be nice includes in some of my work. Occasionally. And $500 is a lot to ask for occasionally.
 

Aleamapper

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I don't think I'd have time for two steps worth of editing for every shot I take (reframing from footage in app and then my actual video editor) but I do think that occasionally having the spinny epic mode shot or whatever for revealing a whole environment quickly would be nice includes in some of my work. Occasionally. And $500 is a lot to ask for occasionally.
For me on the mountain bike it makes perfect sense - I can spin round and see the funny faces I pull on gnarly stuff, point it at other riders on the trails with me or just reframe shots that wouldn't have looked quite right just pointed off the front of the bike.

The Insta software actually does a brilliant job with looking in the right direction - it seems to lead corners and look sliiightly towards the apex, and chicanes and wiggly stuff stays pointing more or less down the trail like you'd like, not swinging from left to right with the bike. I do basically nothing to the reframing besides point down a little and push out the FOV, so as an extra step it's tiny.

I don't even mind the 1080p tbh, it's no worse than the GoPro Max, IIRC. I just wish they weren't so misleading in the specs.
 
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Has anyone ever purchased any camera gear from BuyDig off of ebay: I'm sure I've done BuyDig for computer stuff in the past, like decades ago, but never through Ebay? They seem to be a registered Tamron dealer...


But I have a trip coming up in June (where I don't want to travel with more than one lens) and part of me is kicking myself for not getting the 35-150 when it was $1400 and I figured I should ask now just in case a similar deal comes up again, whether I should absolutely avoid them like the plague or consider jumping in?
 

Andrewcw

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Has anyone ever purchased any camera gear from BuyDig off of ebay: I'm sure I've done BuyDig for computer stuff in the past, like decades ago, but never through Ebay? They seem to be a registered Tamron dealer...


But I have a trip coming up in June (where I don't want to travel with more than one lens) and part of me is kicking myself for not getting the 35-150 when it was $1400 and I figured I should ask now just in case a similar deal comes up again, whether I should absolutely avoid them like the plague or consider jumping in?
They are a legit company however it might just be grey market. Not sure which Tamron Site you're looking at for Authorized Resellers.
 

View: https://youtu.be/tmtKFlCBt2Y?t=1944


TLDR: 360 x4 only looks dramatically better than the X3 at base ISO in very good lighting. Otherwise, it's not going to be much of an improvement over the predecessor. So sunny skies only...

Overall, I absolutely see a place for the Insta360 X4, but users will need to be very aware of the limitations. When recording in bright light, the image is absolutely an improvement over its precursor. When shooting indoors or in morning and evening, the results will be indistinguishable or even worse than the more affordable X3, so pick the right camera for your use case.



I still kinda want one but I'd probably put the Laowa 10mm F2.8 on my shopping list first.
 
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Aleamapper

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TLDR: 360 x4 only looks dramatically better than the X3 at base ISO in very good lighting. Otherwise, it's not going to be much of an improvement over the predecessor. So sunny skies only...
Cool, now I feel even better about missing the boat! Or, technically, getting the earlier boat by mistake...

I've seen rumors the v2 GoPro Max will be out towards the end of this year, or perhaps start of next year, hopefully that will be a decent improvement. It's been almost five years since the Max came out, so we should be due a decent upgrade, but I seem to remember their Hero updates being quite underwhelming and with issues with overheating, so I'm not enormously confident.
 
So the Insta360 cameras are for 360 photos and videos taken in action sports?

Average use case is more similar to regular action cams recording wider than you need to so it can shave margins for stabilization and horizon leveling, only this does it on a much larger scale, especially if you can't be sure the camera will be facing directly where you want it or the subject is moving around unpredictably. By recording nearly everything you can hedge your bets. And then you can reframe in post production. OTOH, if you want to really show off something in particular, there's not going to be that many pixels dedicated to it, even with an "8K" spherical map to draw from. And unless you're using a giant monopod/stick to hold it, you're not going to want to directly upload a 360 video to youtube because your face will probably be right next to the rear camera and usually no one needs that.

The automatic special effects like pans that you can do with these things are pretty cool but unless you really require that, the new action cams with larger sensors have much better low light capabilities than these do at the moment.
 
My dad has been invited onto a military Honor Flight to DC and I'm likely going with him. I'm not sure what lens/es I want to take: I'm guessing there's going to be early bed times and most of the stuff is outdoors so my 50-400 would let me get a lot of vanity shots of details out and about but in all honesty I should be focusing on dad and the other people. I do kinda wish I had the Tamron 35-150. I could rent one for the trip but I'm also wondering if maybe it's time for me to buy an ultrawide instead of just using my aging phone for that sort of thing: the viltrox 16 F1.8 might be up my alley and would let me do video much more easy in confined spaces like the plane. And then maybe just pair that with my 28-75 F2.8. I didn't want to take two lenses but it might be necessary if I'm going to do video as well. I'll also need something appropriate for a massive group portrait that won't make me stand a mile back like my 85mm necessitates. The 50mm on my 50-400 might be too tight for that as well.

(If the sony 16-35 F2.8 GM were in my budget, I'd get it in a heartbeat for the 4x motors: most people don't care about max focusing potential but I do. And it becomes a 24-53 in crop mode which is awesome for video since you can film interviews without distortion so it could be a one-lens solution for some jobs.)

I had a photo/video gig last weekend where a charity event was held in a theater and while theaters have good lights for the stage, I was there to document the crowd. A flash wasn't really workable so I brought some tube lights with stands. I had a harder time than usual using the tube lights freehand though (left hand with light FAR out to the side while I took a picture) because I still had to use shutter speeds like 1/40 and evidently I've been slacking at the gym because my camera hand was not entirely stable at those speeds. All my pictures looked like crap in preview and I was lamenting the fact that I don't have a 50mm F1.2... but when I brought them home and worked on them, they were solid, fine, as good or better than anyone else locally could have done.

The Viltrox 16mm would have let me get some cool shots although it doesn't have the close minimum focusing distance of the Laowa 10mm (I'm envious of hands holding food/plates shots you can get with that lens for events). OTOH, I'm spread a bit too thin with the variety of jobs I'm taking compared to what I'm making (photo jobs just to pay for more photo gear) so it's not good when you're coveting BOTH 50mm F1.2s and the 70-200 F2.8GM and you don't even know which piece of kit you should prioritize.
 
Youtube keeps recommending me "you don't need F2.8 lenses (F4 is great!)" videos by people trying to get enough views to afford GM gear. In a sense, video IS a lot more forgiving than photography because you always have the option to get nearly a full second worth of light every second that you're shooting. But unless you are making that youtube money, you're probably going to have to do some photography and you'll still find yourself trying to film things that you can't kit out with lights.

I recently started shooting (photography) some baseball with an 85mm prime: if you play nicely with others, you can sometimes get dugout access and if you crouch and make yourself small enough to not interfere with play, it's enough reach for at-bat shots from there, albeit with some cropping (I haven't tested to see if 135mm would be too tight but it might be better). Being able to shoot 1/8000 when most of your competition is shooting 1/1600 or even 1/500 APSC at F7 is... nice and it's just more fun, across the board.

Speaking of which, since I now post a lot of baseball on Facebook, the algorithm means I have to see a lot of terrible newspaper photographers in my feed. Vertical lines are never at 90 degrees and horizons are never level, blurry balls from 1/500 shooting, overexposed everything and no color saturation, unflattering shots when people have their eyes closed or tongues hanging out, etc. that they're not willing to toss because they don't have better bat-on-ball contact shots to choose from...

I think that the low tier pros are so bad because they learn the habits of the bigger pros (the major metropolitan paper shooters) who only need to get one or two solid shots, total, and since they know they're not going to win an award for anything they do that day, they're as lazy as possible when getting sure things and STOP shooting once they know they have their quota. So the low level folks try to emulate them and it ends badly since they never have to level up. Whereas I do all the things in the above paragraph correctly and STILL know that I suck and have a lot to learn.
 
Anyone have a preference in the Rode Wireless Pro vs. DJI Mic 2 war? I'd prefer to support Rode but there are a lot of people like Petapixel that claim the Rode suffers from too much signal interference despite its slightly better audio quality.

I already own an aged wireless system but I almost never use it because it doesn't have internal recording and I'm usually close enough even in field interviews to just put an extension cord on a lav. (I really should have never bought this, it was an ancient system on clearance.) Plus, even my mini shotgun mic plus Resolve's AI voice isolation is often 99% pro enough in the real world. But internal recording/32float/and a simpler setup might inspire me to do more multi-party interviews in the field.
 

CthulhuDragon

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I'm mostly indifferent, but I have a DJI Mic 2 alongside my Pocket 3 and it's pretty nice. I would go that route since I already have the one transmitter. They also just released a Sony Hot Shoe connector for the receiver which really makes it appealing. No cords at all to connect it to my Sony cameras. I have the Sony ECM-M1 and I like that about it, just slide it in and go. That would push me in that direction.
 
I'm a bit salty about the sony hotshoe since it's design forced a bad design out of flash manufacturers which wound up breaking my flash. I like the idea of the mic connections but I shoot with a top handle that precludes it most of the time. I might be in for a pocket 3 (or 4) down the line so I'll keep that in mind. Glad you're happy with the mic situation.

Youtube just rec'd me this:
Boudoir Photography Using Natural Light

553 views
1 hour ago
How is this still a thing? I mean, people can take their own naughty pics just fine now and have them printed anonymously and if you want to thirst-trap on social media, some geezer old enough to use the word Boudoir probably shouldn't be your go-to guy?

I realize that I've chosen some of the least lucrative genres to work in, sports and event (because everyone wants to do it or thinks they can), but at least they make sense. I mean, how is baby cake-smash a thing?
 

Baenwort

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I'm a bit salty about the sony hotshoe since it's design forced a bad design out of flash manufacturers which wound up breaking my flash. I like the idea of the mic connections but I shoot with a top handle that precludes it most of the time. I might be in for a pocket 3 (or 4) down the line so I'll keep that in mind. Glad you're happy with the mic situation.

Youtube just rec'd me this:

How is this still a thing? I mean, people can take their own naughty pics just fine now and have them printed anonymously and if you want to thirst-trap on social media, some geezer old enough to use the word Boudoir probably shouldn't be your go-to guy?

I realize that I've chosen some of the least lucrative genres to work in, sports and event (because everyone wants to do it or thinks they can), but at least they make sense. I mean, how is baby cake-smash a thing?

My cousin works as a makeup artist for a Boudoir photography studio (she also works in the theater district and teaches as a subsitute art teach for a school district) and it still exists for the same reason professional headshots and model shooting is a thing.

Some people are bad at something they want but have the money to pay someone who is good at it to do it for them.

It is also a experience thing (the process of doing a Boudoir shoot) that is an entire package. From what she tells me the session can be fulfilling a modeling dream, documenting how they looked before pregnancy, a narcissistic fantasy, or a couple that spends a lot of time apart for work. She's also gossiped that some are doing the equivalent of the actor's headshot for their body.
 
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That's interesting. My favorite thing is when I see profile pictures on social media that are stuff that I've taken, that I've found the exact way that someone hopes to be seen and wants to put that out in the world. I'd probably find it discouraging to have all my best work hidden in a book somewhere.

also:

* Has automatic lens profile corrections that removes vignetting

* Adds vignettes 6x as strong to 1/3rd of all photos...
 
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Ashe

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My cousin works as a makeup artist for a Boudoir photography studio (she also works in the theater district and teaches as a subsitute art teach for a school district) and it still exists for the same reason professional headshots and model shooting is a thing.

Some people are bad at something they want but have the money to pay someone who is good at it to do it for them.

It is also a experience thing (the process of doing a Boudoir shoot) that is an entire package. From what she tells me the session can be fulfilling a modeling dream, documenting how they looked before pregnancy, a narcissistic fantasy, or a couple that spends a lot of time apart for work. She's also gossiped that some are doing the equivalent of the actor's headshot for their body.
This. A couple of my couple friends proudly show off their boudoir photo book. I know others who have done a shoot and kept their photo books private for their loved ones or themselves. It's a thing and if people wanna pay a pro to take pro-level pictures for them, more power to them. The books I have seen certainly couldn't have been done by some amateur.
 

Andrewcw

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I'm a bit salty about the sony hotshoe since it's design forced a bad design out of flash manufacturers which wound up breaking my flash. I like the idea of the mic connections but I shoot with a top handle that precludes it most of the time. I might be in for a pocket 3 (or 4) down the line so I'll keep that in mind. Glad you're happy with the mic situation.
Seriously you wanted sony to keep the old iISO hot-shoe back from the Minolta days and basically be the only game in town for their own products? Because you know Sony would do that if they were close to being a dominant player as they are now 15 years ago.
 
Seriously you wanted sony to keep the old iISO hot-shoe back from the Minolta days and basically be the only game in town for their own products? Because you know Sony would do that if they were close to being a dominant player as they are now 15 years ago.

The A74 and forward (maybe not the newest stuff like the C2) have a slightly different design than the A7S3/A7R3 and older. So maybe two years worth of designs. It's subtle but stuff made even within the past few years for sony products have a TIGHT fit that threatens to destroy either the shoe or accessory. This is basically unknown to anyone other than those of us explicitly affected by it!
 
I've been "kicking the can" forward on getting a wide angle lens because of the "well, I can just use my phone for that" excuse. I think I'm finally ready. I don't think I can realistically swing the 16-35GM2 though and the GM1 prices haven't really fallen dramatically in my area.

* Viltrox 16 F1.8: I've been slowly turning into one of those "F2.8 isn't good enough" people -- sigh -- and if I'm going to bother with a lens swap, I'd like to go all in (and yet the Sony 14mm F1.8 is too spendy for me and the Laowa 10mm F2.8 a bit too niche)...

* Sony 16-35 F4 PZ: Sony's new 16-25 F2.8 is tempting (outclassing the Sigma equivalent) but for video in crop mode, 35mm * 1.5 = 53mm which would make for more flattering interviews so it'd probably be worth dropping to F4 for that. Get a 72mm VND filter to leave on permanently and it'd be close to a "do everything" video lens, even though I probably wouldn't have nearly as much fun taking pictures with it compared to the viltrox...

I hate decision making...
 
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View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_raxCytVZY



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfSpcshqRdM


The interesting thing is that Sigma evidently says their new 24-70 is 3x faster at driving the focus motors than their mark 1. Does that mean that the Sony GM2, which is evidently still faster than the new Sigma, was 5x or more faster than the original? Does the price differential look crazy then?

This subject is mentally sticky for me in that:

1. no one reviewing prime lenses ever really tests the focus speed in real world situations (other than racking from near to far and back again or bobbing their head side to side on the same focal plane!) and always says something like "no one ever uses these to shoot sports in the real world, right?"

2. I still want to shoot sports at F1.2 because delivering images that other people can't is half the fun

3. 24-70s are the best selling lenses on the market by a huge margin and they probably get a corresponding amount of R&D so they probably are better at focusing, period

4. reviewers are still hung up on the 15fps limit for 3rd party glass on Sony and yet are not upset that even though eye detect works fine in static situations, in unpredictable ones, the best way to make your lens do its job is still to hold the shutter down and take far more pictures than you need. I don't think my camera treats back button focus as "serious business" as much as engaging a burst shot does (maybe for battery conservation?), no matter how good it is at painting green eye boxes on my monitor.

5. Fro Guy says as a wealthy working professional he'd get the GM2 gear as a no-brainer but that most people don't need it. And that's true.

But when Sigma itself is bragging that they made one aspect of their best selling lens 3x better and everyone's reaction is "shrug?"

Weird industry.

53725740764_e51a74eba3_b.jpg

[tamron 50-400: F6.3 - 374mm - 1/3200]
 
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50-60mm is the sweet spot for basketball if you have baseline access. Anything over 35 is too wide and is especially unusable vertically as you can't print 16x10 verticals for the most part so it's better to be horizontal and crop if you have to.

70-135 is ideal for baseball/softball if you have dugout access. I use an 85mm prime. But a 24-70 does allow for more flexibility on player photos in the box. A lot of this comes down to access: yeah, if you're a parent in the grandstands, you'll make do with your ultrazoom bridge camera, but if you can get closer, things change a lot. And, of course, you can't JUST take at-bat photos, you'll need to change positions and equipment a lot. But your at-bat photos can bury everyone else's if you're shooting F2.8 (or F1.8) and everyone else is at F8 with heat distortion because of the distance.

Bowling is obviously a perfect use case, albeit the case for primes becomes stronger as everyone will be shooting 24-70 F2.8.

For video, crop modes are often ideal as it reduces rolling shutter on a lot of bodies, which turns a 24-70 into a 36-105mm. So not only do sports like basketball let you cover the back end of the court better (especially since you don't need to be as tight since you're not about capturing facial expressions as much), sports like tennis becomes perfectly usable. Sure, you'll still want 400mm photos through the back fences across the courts, but video is more forgiving. OTOH, if you're shooting 120FPS (or higher), when your footage is slowed down, autofocus deficiencies become far more apparent. So the difference between an average 24-70 and the first party one becomes something you have to seriously think about.

But it's not just about sports, if you're trying to take a lot of pictures of several people sequentially, or trying to get an animal in a brief pause between zoomies, I think photographers underestimate the number of shots they miss because we normally don't demand best in class focusing ability and manufacturers think we care far more about aperture rings and controlled focus breathing...
 
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I found my perfect camera:


also:


Fujifilm has announced the GF500mm F5.6 R LM OIS WR, a relatively lightweight, compact super-tele prime for its GFX medium format system.

The 500mm delivers a 396mm equivalent angle of view in a lens that's 247mm (9.4") long and weighs 1,375g (3.03 lbs). It has built-in image stabilization rated to give up to 6.0EV of correction.

I guess another way of looking at it is that it'd be a 250mm equivalent if GFX was actually, really, truly medium format? Still cool. The army really pushes GFX bodies in its bx stores, or at least they used to, so there's some number of bored young people with them (solid discount, no tax).


  • Sigma will soon announce a new Sigma 28-45mm f/1.8 DG DN lens!

For probably less money I'd probably rather own the Sigma 35 and 50 F1.2. When you want to go fast, you might as well go all the way. Especially since the sony 24-70 F2 goes so much wider (if it works out).