Time to replace my Ryzen 1600 build. Any problems with this list?

Lee Vann · May 12, 2024

So it has been a while and I find myself wanting a new desktop. Primarily to play games and keep a billion tabs open in web browsers. I played around on pc part picker and went with vendors I've had great success with in the past for long term reliability for the major components. Are there any hidden pitfalls or better optimizations I can make? It has been quite some time since I've done this, and I've been out of the tech loop working on a new career.

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vg9WTY

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($205.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 6 60.29 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock X670E Steel Legend ATX AM5 Motherboard ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Titanium 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6600 CL32 Memory ($175.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Titanium 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6600 CL32 Memory ($175.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial T700 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($151.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Crucial P3 Plus 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($237.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7800 XT 16 GB Video Card ($509.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Pop Silent ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus 750 Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer ($21.99 @ ASUS)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail - Download 64-bit ($199.00 @ Newegg)
Total: $2130.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-05-12 11:18 EDT-0400

Oddabe19 · May 12, 2024

Save some money and decide if you really need 64GB of ram (you probably don't)
Likewise, just get a spinning 4TB drive, especially if you're just storing movies and music and such on it, if you need flash storage, don't do NVME and your secondary drive, and save some $ there, there's very little speed benefit if you're throwing games on it. Maybe do 2TB spinner and 2TB Nvme instead of 1TB Nvme?

Otherwise, looks fine.

Lee Vann · May 12, 2024

Thank you.

I have about 20TB of spinning and non-spinning Sata disks in my current build and will probably move them over. The big NVME drive is because I have actually seen a huge load time improvement in Total War and a few other games. Like 30 seconds better when I upgraded from a SATA SSD. No better frame rates, just faster load times for some parts of the game. I've never tried a pci 4 or above one though and am not sure it that makes any difference. I should consider downgrading.

I have 32 Gb of ram in my current system right now and just figured I'd double that to be safe. It's there mostly for my open web browser tab addiction. But I guess I do not really need it, so may drop it down to 32.

cerberusTI · May 12, 2024

At 6600 you will end up at a 2:1 ratio for the memory controller, so that will likely be ever so slightly slower than 6000 for most uses unless you manually overclock it at 1:1, and are lucky.

You definitely cannot do this with four modules, you should use two if at all possible. Speeds are much lower at four than two modules, and when they sell a two module kit it is only rated for that speed with two. You would buy a four module kit to try that, but rated speeds will be much lower and the only reason to do so would be that you want more than 96GB of memory. 2x 32GB would be much better than 4x 16GB.

Some people have had more luck with G.Skill than other vendors as well, although they improved compatibility at some point.

Lee Vann · May 12, 2024

I defiantly do not want to mess around with manual overclocking. I did that back in the olden days of the Celeron 300 with custom water loops and such. Way too much effort these days.

So, a 2X32 at 6600 would be good? 6600 is the max rated non-overclock speed for that motherboard based on their website specs. Or would I get better performance with 6000 even at 2x32?

jwbaker · May 12, 2024

I definitely agree with using 2 DIMMs instead of 4, if nothing else it gives you a future upgrade path. 32GB would not be enough for a 12-thread CPU so 64GB is the best spot. The problem is that with 32GB DIMMs of that brand you are getting a 2-rank DIMM, which require slower timing again. So if you are optimizing for how fast it looks on paper you probably want 2x16.

Lee Vann · May 12, 2024

I'm optimizing on having a huge number of browser tabs open at the same time I'm playing a game and maybe watching a video. I have like ~200 tabs open right now, a few messaging apps up, and Total War: Warhammer 3 going on this 16 GB laptop. I want to be able to do that and more and just alt-tab around and have different things on multiple monitors. Overall speed is in third place after multi-tasking and reliability. After that is having NO RBG, then noise level.
Is this any goo for a 2x32 6000 memory set? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Xg...ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040g32gx2-tz5n

cerberusTI · May 12, 2024

Lee Vann said:
I defiantly do not want to mess around with manual overclocking. I did that back in the olden days of the Celeron 300 with custom water loops and such. Way too much effort these days.

So, a 2X32 at 6600 would be good? 6600 is the max rated non-overclock speed for that motherboard based on their website specs. Or would I get better performance with 6000 even at 2x32?

In most cases it will be slower at 6600 than at 6000 if you just hit the XMP button. You will have more bandwidth, but higher latency, and latency matters more in most cases. It is not a big difference, but for gaming anything over 6000 is likely a small loss of performance rather than a gain.

This is because the memory controller will then run at 1650mhz instead of 3000mhz. It will never go over 3000 (DDR 6000) unless you do this manually, and most chips are not stable if you force 3300mhz manually.

The kit you linked in the last post is the one I have in this computer (with a 7950X3D), it works well. A G.Skill EXPO kit seems to produce the least problems in hitting the rated speed, and most motherboards will select good subtimings for it by default.

Edit:
I also have https://www.gskill.com/product/165/377/1684287813/F5-6400J3239F48GX2-RS5K in another computer along with a 7800X3D (they do not make higher capacity EXPO modules). That also works at 96GB, but it was not stable at 6400 1:1, and I ended up manually setting timings at 6000 (6200 tested stable, but I do not like to be right at the limit.)

Both kits took far tighter subtimings than they specify or default, the 6400 kit may also have done that reliably with better ram cooling, errors only showed up after a while, when temperatures were high (I also like to test with the case fan near RAM set to low, so I do no get a mid summer instability surprise).

jwbaker · May 12, 2024

Lee Vann said:
I'm optimizing on having a huge number of browser tabs open at the same time I'm playing a game and maybe watching a video. I have like ~200 tabs open right now, a few messaging apps up, and Total War: Warhammer 3 going on this 16 GB laptop. I want to be able to do that and more and just alt-tab around and have different things on multiple monitors. Overall speed is in third place after multi-tasking and reliability. After that is having NO RBG, then noise level.
Is this any goo for a 2x32 6000 memory set? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Xg...ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040g32gx2-tz5n

Honestly I just buy server memory, avoiding gamer brands. Lights and heat spreaders on RAM don't make sense and JEDEC timing exists for a reason. Flaky RAM is one of the most irritating things in PC life. That said, $210 for 64GB is a fair price. You could save a few bucks with e.g. Crucial CT2K32G48C40U5.

IceStorm · May 12, 2024

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/T3cPqR

Drop the CPU to a 7600. There's almost no difference between the two, so save $15 and you get an extra cooler. It also uses half the power (AMD really pushed the X SKUs to make sure they beat Intel).

If you want 64GB, buy 2x32GB from the start. G.Skill's single kit is cheaper, and Corsair's Dominator Platinum subtimings aren't good as Hardware Unboxed uncovered.

Crucial's P3 drives are QLC. Avoid QLC. For slightly more you can get a Lexar 4TB with an included heatsink.

I think PCIe 5.0 is a waste of time, but it's your money. I'd rather have a 2TB PCIe 4.0 drive.

Drop the Seasonic 750W for a MSI 850W. Has a native 12VHPWR port.

If you really want an optical drive, get the LG WH16NS40. It's a more versatile drive.

At the level of advertising MS is dumping into Window 11 (even Pro), I wouldn't pay full price for it, but maybe that's just me.

Lee Vann · May 12, 2024

That is a good point. Maybe I should look to go to the next higher non-x sku.

I'll be getting the 2X32 kit from G.Skill it seems.

So Crucial p3 drives are to be avoided. I'll look at changing that up. I went with a PCI 5 drive because the MB has one slot for that, and 5 is always better than 4 right. Out of habit, I like to put the OS on one very fast drive and most everything else on some other drive. I like to have the swap file be as free and fast as possible. I'll have to investigate reviews and such better for the storage drives.

Sorry, there is Zero chance I'm getting MSI anything after the last batch of crap they sold me. I went with seasonic because I have never had one go bad on me. No other manufacture can say that. Only PC Power and Cooling can come close.

I actually forgot to mention that the optical drive is just a place holder. I'll be moving my LG BD burner over, and pick up some cheap used shit for the old PC I'm giving to a nephew.

I'm just used to getting the Pro version of windows. Not sure why, it just feels like a safer choice. Probably due to habit. I'll think about downgrading it.

Thank you.

cerberusTI · May 12, 2024

If we are giving opinions, I think the current standout products on the market are the 7800X3D and t700 (or the recently released t705).

I was not really expecting the T700 I have to be notably better than a WD SN850X, but it is in some situations (4TB versions for both). Not all pcie 5 drives are really worth it, but some are, and that one is.

I also have a bunch of P3s (not the plus variety, just P3, and also all 4TB) in another computer, which are used for storage for a bunch of giant SQL DBs (testing and archive, not constant use), AI training data, and backups. They do fine in that role, and are OK for more like archival storage. A spinning HD is probably a better fit, but it is still much faster than a HD, they are cheap, and they are silent.

I think he is saying there are cheaper ways to get a questionable Windows license, although I also just pay MS where I use their software, and bought a $200 copy from the MS store for both computers I put together this year.

Lee Vann · May 12, 2024

So maybe something like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rbksN6

cerberusTI · May 12, 2024

If that is within your budget, that is an excellent computer.

It is basically the the absolute fastest processor, memory, and storage you can buy right now, and that storage and processor are a big leap over most competing items available.

Video cards are their own thing, of course, although the one you have is fine as far as I know (I have a 3070 and a 4090, but for my gaming uses the 4090 is a total waste, and I mostly use it for work... I actually have the built in CPU graphics connected to the same monitor on a second input so I can do some light gaming while the 4090 is busy without bothering it).

Edit:
That cooler is also the one I have (on both computers). If you grab a copy of fancontrol and set an appropriate time average, a D15 can cool a 7800X3D in dead silence. It is probably more cooling that it strictly needs, but I do like that it is so quiet.

IceStorm · May 12, 2024

Lee Vann said:
That is a good point. Maybe I should look to go to the next higher non-x sku.

At $2k, I'd really be looking at 8 or more cores. A 7700, or even a 7900, would be more appropriate. A 7600 isn't terrible as a "placeholder" as you could upgrade it once the 9000 series launches, or if you find the six cores aren't enough down the line.

So Crucial p3 drives are to be avoided. I'll look at changing that up. I went with a PCI 5 drive because the MB has one slot for that, and 5 is always better than 4 right. Out of habit, I like to put the OS on one very fast drive and most everything else on some other drive. I like to have the swap file be as free and fast as possible. I'll have to investigate reviews and such better for the storage drives.

For Windows, PCIe 5.0 shouldn't have much impact.

QLC I don't mind if the drive price is cheap enough, but when TLC drives are so close in price, I choose TLC over QLC every time.

Sorry, there is Zero chance I'm getting MSI anything after the last batch of crap they sold me.

They don't actually make the PSU. If you want to get a Seasonic, that's fine, but at least get something with a 12VHPWR connector. The 750W is $90. The 850W version is $110.

I'm just used to getting the Pro version of windows.

I'm not saying don't get Pro, I'm saying do something like get a key from a site for $15-$25 instead of paying $199.

Lee Vann · May 12, 2024

My budget is around 2000 give or take a few hundred.

As you can see from my last desktop build being a 1600 ryzen I tend not to upgrade the base system much. This one had a few GPU upgrads, a new power supply, and new motherboard put in. The last two because the MSI crap MB I had died then the Corsair PS went a few months later. I have a nice Asrock Tachi (Id get a new one for this build, but it is like 500$) & Seasonic in there now.

I have an irrational hatred of Nvidia so will not use their cards unless I absolutely have to. It all dates back to the days of the Nforce 2 Chipset. I had like 3 GPU's and 4 MB's of theirs blow out in a one to two year period.

For that price the cooler better be outstanding. I use their case fans in my current build which is why I am considering them for the CPU cooler. Not sure if I want to pay that much or downgrade to Scythe Mugen 6

Lee Vann · May 12, 2024

IceStorm said:
At $2k, I'd really be looking at 8 or more cores. A 7700, or even a 7900, would be more appropriate. A 7600 isn't terrible as a "placeholder" as you could upgrade it once the 9000 series launches, or if you find the six cores aren't enough down the line.

I'm thinking of the 7800x3d right now. I really do not care to be upgrading CPU (or Motherboard) down the road. So I'd like to get a very good one now and make it last.

For Windows, PCIe 5.0 shouldn't have much impact.

QLC I don't mind if the drive price is cheap enough, but when TLC drives are so close in price, I choose TLC over QLC every time.

Thankyou, I have no idea what the difference is in them, but it is probably something important.

They don't actually make the PSU. If you want to get a Seasonic, that's fine, but at least get something with a 12VHPWR connector. The 750W is $90. The 850W version is $110.

I have no idea what that connecter is or what it does, but I'll trust you and get one with it.

I'm not saying don't get Pro, I'm saying do something like get a key from a site for $15-$25 instead of paying $199.

Oh that was the intention all along. It is just PC Part picker does not list them like that.

Thank you for sharing your wisdom.

IceStorm · May 12, 2024

Lee Vann said:
I'm thinking of the 7800x3d right now. I really do not care to be upgrading CPU (or Motherboard) down the road. So I'd like to get a very good one now and make it last.

If you are gaming, then the 7800X3D makes sense. If you just need cores for a bunch of apps, it makes less sense.

I have no idea what that connecter is or what it does, but I'll trust you and get one with it.

It's a ~660W connector that nVidia's using on new video cards. Eventually, AMD and Intel may also join the fun.

As for QLC vs TLC - QLC is four bits per cell, while TLC is usually 3 bits per cell. QLC starts out writing one bit per cell, which means the drive is really 1/4 the size on the label. When it runs out of cells, it goes back and re-writes it as four bits per cell, but write speeds drop down to 80-100MB/sec when it does this. TLC never has this problem. Its write speed does drop when the drive's caching area fills up, but it doesn't drop to 80-100MB/sec, it's more like 600MB-1GB/sec.

continuum · May 12, 2024

IceStorm said:
As for QLC vs TLC - QLC is four bits per cell, while TLC is usually 3 bits per cell. QLC starts out writing one bit per cell, which means the drive is really 1/4 the size on the label. When it runs out of cells, it goes back and re-writes it as four bits per cell, but write speeds drop down to 80-100MB/sec when it does this. TLC never has this problem. Its write speed does drop when the drive's caching area fills up, but it doesn't drop to 80-100MB/sec, it's more like 600MB-1GB/sec.

Kingston KC3000 2 TB Review - Faster Than Samsung 980 Pro

The Kingston KC3000 is built using the Phison E18 controller and Micron's best 176-layer TLC NAND flash. In our performance testing, the drive can beat the Samsung 980 Pro and is the fastest SSD we ever tested. It shares that performance throne with the WD Black SN850.

www.techpowerup.com

As an example, Kingston KC3000 is a TLC-based drive that uses its entire area as a pseudo-SLC cache. When that is filled and it has to convert from 1-bit per cell to 3-bits per cell, it drops to about 1.5G/sec.

That said, many users will never do that many writes at once in daily usage, so up to the OP on how much to worry about it.

Lee Vann · May 12, 2024

So after some revision here is a new build:
PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9vZKmD

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($345.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 3 67.62 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock X670E Steel Legend ATX AM5 Motherboard ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial T705 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($164.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7800 XT 16 GB Video Card ($509.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Pop Silent ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-850 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - USB 64-bit ($138.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $2018.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-05-12 21:20 EDT-0400

I doubt I'll ever use 12VHPWR as long as it is an Nvidia only option, but you never know so I added it in. Upped the power to 850 just to be safe as well in case I need to upgrade the GPU down the road.

continuum · May 13, 2024

Lee Vann said:
Scythe Fuma 3

IIRC the Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 EVO is slightly better (that's an Intel testbed which is significantly different tho, not AMD) and is pretty much the same price at

Lee Vann said:
Crucial T705

I think it's overkill but definitely seems to be the way to go based on reviews. However honestly if you need >2TB storage I think a single 4TB PCI-e 4.0 drive might be the way to go unless you prefer separate drives. Samsung 990 Pro 4TB is $309.

hobold · May 13, 2024

I have little to add other than to say that this is a high quality build for quite a bit of money. You are not overpaying for what you get, but you might not actually need that little bit of extra performance in each and every little component.

I'm trying to be the voice of reason - but you've made it clear what your budget and your usage scenario is. This machine should serve you very well for quite a while.

steelghost · May 13, 2024

That's some very nice hardware, I just think you want to put it in a better breathing case. The Pop Silent is nice and quiet but not well suited to higher power components.

If you want to stay with Fractal (and I've no objections there, their cases are great IMO) you could consider cases from the North, Torrent, Meshify series', or even the non-Silent Pop cases, depending on your aesthetic preferences and how big your preferred GPU, PSU and CPU cooler are.

Demento · May 13, 2024

Yeah, I thought save a few bucks on Thermalright. It shouldn't be quite as quiet, but that Fractal case kills sounds pretty dead (I have an R5, and you'd think the CPU was passively cooled) and if you usually only run flat out whilst gaming the noise from your 7800XT will drown out any CPU cooler.

I would concur on would rather have a 2TB 4.0 than a 1TB 5.0 (or 4 vs 2)

I personally wouldn't do X670E and only maybe B650E, but it is a valid choice if you're really into future-proofing.

IceStorm · May 13, 2024

He's locked into a Fractal Design Pop of some kind. The 5.25" drive requirement means most other cases are off the table. He can go lower end, like the Focus G or Core, or higher end, like the Define, but the North, Torrent, and Meshify are non-starters.

I would swap out the SSDs. Samsung had a lot of issues with the 980 Pro firmware. For the primary, I'd go with a 2TB WD SN850X w/ heatsink as it's on sale for $144. For the secondary, go with ADATA's Premium for PS5 2TB (it's just a white Gammix S70 Blade) for $134. WD uses their own controller and firmware, while ADATA uses an Innogrit controller and has a good firmware updater (their SSD Toolbox). Gives you some diversity and extra capacity for less money.

This was posted over in the SSD thread:

5 reasons to switch to a bleeding-edge PCIe 5.0 SSD (and 5 reasons not to)

Even early PCIe Gen 5.0 SSDs offer massive increases in performance over PCIe Gen 4.0 drives, but the cost and practical benefits make it less compelling.

www.pcworld.com

Gives you a better idea if you need a PCIe 5.0 SSD today or can wait.

cerberusTI · May 13, 2024

That is a bit outdated though, the newer pcie 5 SSDs (like a T705) are significantly faster than the one in that review. They now saturate pcie5, rather than being slightly above the max for pcie 4.

It was linked as it is one of the last reviews to include Optane, as far as I know there are no direct comparisons to a truly modern drive as they are not introducing new products.

This is a better link to see how it stacks up against other current products:

Crucial T705 2TB SSD Review: The Fastest SSD on The Planet

Crucial T705 delivers another first for retail SSDs.

www.tomshardware.com

There is a large latency drop, and transfer speed increase, in the top end drives recently. It is approaching half the latency and twice the transfer rate of good pcie4 drives now.

You could make the case that it is a luxury one does not need at the prices they want, but it is a decent jump in performance over prior models. At $2000 you can get a great computer, but you can certainly build a decent computer for much less. I would put one in a $2000 computer though, it is one of the more noticeable upgrades.

jwbaker · May 13, 2024

There's many aspects of SSD performance and Tom's characteristically focuses on just one, naively. The WD Black, for example, supports 4K LBA format, unlike most other consumer SSDs. The Samsung can sustain pretty serious levels of random IOPS. Any of these are perfectly fine for gaming and media, only database developers will notice the differences.

steelghost · May 13, 2024

IceStorm said:
He's locked into a Fractal Design Pop of some kind. The 5.25" drive requirement means most other cases are off the table. He can go lower end, like the Focus G or Core, or higher end, like the Define, but the North, Torrent, and Meshify are non-starters.

The Define R7 is definitely still available from what I've seen, or there are Pop variants with mesh fronts.

Quite a lot of discussion about this over here if the OP is interested. There are other options as well, depending on how much optical drive use is expected.

IceStorm · May 13, 2024

Kitguru did reviews of the Pop Air. The fans aren't what I would call quiet, even at 800 RPM.

A 7800 XT and 7800X3D will pull around 390W from the wall. It's not ideal, but 400W's probably fine in the Pop Silent.

steelghost · May 13, 2024

FWIW, if the OP is after a vaguely quiet system, I wouldn't put a modern high powered GPU in a hot box like the Pop Silent, because the "noise dampening" panels and so on won't help any with the droning that will inevitably result when the GPU fans spin up.

The way to handle that is to build a system with really good ventilation to keep the air in the case as cool as possible, and hence help the GPU fans spin as slowly as possible. But this conflicts with the desire to have a 5.25" bay for an optical drive - unless the OP is willing to go for an older (and dearer) case like the Define 7, which is not known for stellar cooling but will be better than the Pop Silent and does have a top mounted 5.25" bay. Or they could build in a case that flows air better, and use an external enclosure like the OWC one I linked above for their 5.25" drive.

Or, they could upgrade the fans in the Pop Air to something better. Noctuas are the obvious choice but Arctic and others run them pretty close for noise and airflow, but for rather less money.

Lee Vann · May 13, 2024

I have a Define 7 already with the 1600. I'm thinking of just reusing that case and getting a new cheap case for the old build to give to my Nephew. I went with the Pop just because it seemed like a nice looking case that would do much the same as my existing one. I'll probably get new case fans for it anyway as the ones in there are pretty old. I had a Cosair case on the build before that, and may just get another for him. Or just cheap out and grab a 30 dollar case off newegg.

steelghost · May 14, 2024

If you already have the Define 7, then I'd definitely go that route of reusing it for your new build and getting something else for your nephew.

continuum · May 15, 2024

continuum said:
IIRC the Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 EVO is slightly better (that's an Intel testbed which is significantly different tho, not AMD) and is pretty much the same price at

Thermalright's Peerless Assassin 120 SE is the best CPU air cooler, now only $33

Best-in-class performance for a great price

www.tomshardware.com

Might also be worth a look - Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE down to $34.

N00balicious · May 19, 2024

steelghost said:
If you already have the Define 7, then I'd definitely go that route of reusing it for your new build and getting something else for your nephew.

If the OP needs to buy new, The Fractal Define 7 is good box series. Its got a lot of features, good quality, and its appropriately priced.

My recommendation is to get the Fractal Design Define 7 Compact Mid-Tower Computer Case.

The slightly smaller size of the "Compact" makes for easier placement around the physical desktop without sacrificing any necessary Define 7 features.

However, if you've already got one, don't spend the money on buying another Define 7.

Time to replace my Ryzen 1600 build. Any problems with this list?

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Smack-Fu Master, in training